New York Cork Report

What We Drank (February 15, 2012)

Here is a sampling of what our editors and contributors have been drinking....

Evan Dawson: Standing Stone Vineyards 1995 Riesling and 1994 Pinnacle
The first question when encountering wines of this age is simple: Are they alive? The next question is more complicated: Are they any good?

It was a tremendous pleasure to drink the '95 Riesling, which takes its place in my memory alongside the Hermann J. Wiemer 1994 Riesling as some of the best riesling I've ever had from this region. It's the kind of wine that is difficult to describe for those who haven't tasted mature wines. The petrol note is there, but not at all dominant, and instead the wine buoyantly shows off an array of fruits and glazed nuts. It was complex, hedonistically delicious, and a wonderful sign for the future of aged wines at Standing Stone.

The Pinnacle was alive, if not thriving. Much less complex than the riesling, this Bordeaux blend dominated by cabernet sauvignon showed a kind of cherry candy veering toward cherry tootsie roll. But it was still a stiumlating drink.

Hours and days later, that riesling will continue to haunt me. What a wine.

Mark Grimaldi: Paumanok Vineyards 2011 Dry Rose
I stopped by Paumanok a couple weeks ago and happened to run into Kareem in the middle of him bottling 500 cases of his 2011 Dry Rosé. We tasted it off the bottling line and he gave me a bottle to go. We drank it that night.

I always love their rosé. I drank the hell out of the 2009. The 2010 was good but didn't have the acid that I loved in the 2009. This 2011 though, is right back to where the '09 left off thanks to a vintage that is certainly more acid-driven than 2010.

This year they will almost triple rose production from years past, and will include a little petit verdot on top of the cab sauv, cab franc, and merlot they normally use. And thank god they're making more, because they knocked it out of the park with this one. Usually, they sell out of it somewhere around May, but that doesn't mean this one will stick around for much longer even though there's more of it. It's THAT good.

Its pale, almost a hint of orange in color. The nose jumps and it's got tons of character, unmistakably a Paumanok rosé. Citrus, candied strawberry, with even a hint of pepper. The palate is creamy, and I love that! Backed up by a real focused acidity and pretty long, ripe finish. At 12% alcohol, it shows just a touch of heat, but it doesn't detract from the wine at all, it just gives it a bit of roundness and a kick to make sure your summer BBQ or day at the beach is a good time. With the weather we've been having, this can easily be enjoyed now!

Cheers to the Massouds for making such a delicious wine in a difficult vintage.

PS. Kareem is filling 50 kegs of this. Couldn't think of a better wine to have on draft!

Tracy Weiss: V Madrone 2009 Petite Sirah
To celebrate Valentine’s Day at home watching the Westminster Dog Show gnawing on a rack of lamb, I chose a bottle of V Madrone 2009 Petite Sirah.

This wine, a throw back to our romantic trip to Napa years before, paired perfectly with the rare chops and roasted winter vegetables. On our visit to their tasting room (a barn used for barrel storage) we met Chris Tilley, a St. Helena Native who’d spent years in Manhattan before blowing up his finance career to follow his winemaking dream. I could relate.

The wine took me back to the weekend where we spent hours tasting every varietal and vintage on the books in their new history (some vines planted pre-prohibition, but started producing again in 2004). The wine itself was young, dense, incredibly smooth with a with rich fruit (plum!) flavor.

Our empty glasses had a sweet maple syrup smell. A perfect end to a relaxing evening in sweatpants.

Julia Burke: Tousey Winery 2010 Cabernet Franc
Tousey 2010 Cabernet Franc One of my favorite things about the Wines of the Year weekend is the opportunity to taste wines I simply won't see in my neck of the woods. I made my first visit to the Hudson Valley in 2011 and was quite impressed by the character and muscle of many of the wines I tasted; I didn't make it to Tousey so I experienced this cab franc for the first time at Wines of the Year.

It was everything I like in a cab franc: firm and structured with beautiful acidity and a meaty, savory flavor profile. I snagged a glass later, with our spaghetti dinner on Saturday night, and the wine paired nicely with homemade meatballs, red sauce, and fresh parm for a delicious meal.

I'd buy a case of this to have around the house for any night of the week, and I know my next trip to the HV will include a Tousey stop. I've been intrigued by many of the region's hybrid reds, like Chelois and De Chaunac, but if Tousey is any indication it seems the place has a real future as cab franc country.

Lenn Thompson: Ithaca Beer Company Brute
I really like how our beer coverage has expanded over the last 12 to 18 months. We have three contributors focused on beer now and the broader coverage was obvious in our Beers of the Year tasting on Friday night.

Ithaca Beer Company's Excelsior! series is a long-time favorite and Brute -- a golden sour ale fermented with brett and Champagne yeasts may be my favorite of all.

It was fascinating to not only taste this again, but to watch as the NYCR team tasted it with me. It was one of the most polarizing beverages of the weekend. Some -- myself included -- loved it. It was the only tasting that I finished during the tasting. But many found the sourness off putting. That of course led to a discussion about beer styles, exposure to those styles and the context and experience we each bring to tasting new things.

To me, this is an acid hound's beer, with that sourness standing in for the racy acidity that many of us love so much in wine. I rarely see it here on Long Island, but when I do, I buy it. It's a special beer and a must-try for anyone interested in unique, distinctive beer styles.

David Flaherty: Guinness
You've been carrying a baby inside you for nine months.

You've been deprived of the sweet taste of beer, wine and spirits the whole time (well, let's call that eight months).

You go through a 17-hour labor.

The question on everyone's mind: what do you drink at the end??

This WWD is dedicated to my lovely wife, Katherine. So, what did she drink upon returning home? Well, she put the Russian River Pliny the Elder I had waiting on hold (she needed to focus too much for that) and went for the tried, the true, the mother's milk of the beer world: a Guinness.

Now through a strange happening of events, she ended up with both the draft bottle and the draft can (we've got a devoted English family who are often on the same wavelength of how a recovering mother should best "get 'er strength up". What ensued was a taste-off of sorts: can vs bottle. And the clear victor? And I mean the clear victor by a mile: the CAN.

Both made in Dublin from Dublin's finest water, but both obviously using different gas canister apparatuses to carbonate, they were stunningly different. Nothing soothes like an old, familiar standby in times of recovery.

The Pliny will wait. For now, the fridge sits full of tall, black cans of medicine.

What We Drank (January 11, 2012)

This is a sampling of what our contributors have been drinking...

Evan Dawson: Cold Heaven Cellars 2009 Viogniers
This weekend we opened a pair of viogniers from a California winemaker uniquely devoted to the grape. I had a chance to talk to Morgan Clendenen at length about her work, and I can tell you that her wines match her rhetoric. She knows what she likes, and she knows how to deliver it.

Clendenen feels that viognier can be spellbinding, but it can also easily become fat and hot. She loves a carefully made wine from Condrieu, the grape's ancestral home in the Northern Rhone, but she doesn't give a region-wide pass. She wants acidity in her viognier, and she watches closely during harvest to make sure the grapes' acidity levels don't crash.

The results are beautiful. I've had a decent range of viognier from California and now Virginia, and I almost always prefer the stainless steel versions over the oaked versions. That's probably because the winemakers employing new oak also tend to seek super-ripeness and -- there it is again -- low acidity. The Cold Heaven line of wines from Santa Barbara County demonstrates that wood can be gentle and integrated, and a wine with richness and depth can also be crisp and cutting.

These are good, unique wines, and while they're not made in large quantities, they're findable. And they're worth finding.

Bryan Calandrelli: Le Riche 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve
In my mind a best-case scenario for any liquor store visit includes finding a dusty forgotten bottle from an obscure producer labeled with a vintage that most assume is well past its peak.

This bottle of 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon from Le Riche fits this description perfectly.

A quick check of its cellar tracker page sealed the deal that the sale price of $22 the store was asking was well worth the investment. Without an extensive cellar that needs organizing I get the most use out of this site by searching markdown and clearance wines.

After some dried cork wrangling the wine opened up with elegant aromas of currant and dried cherries with some more mature notes of leather and tobacco. I couldn't imagine this wine being any better on the palate thanks to its soft tannins and delicate balance of still vibrant acidity.

I don't think I'll ever stop getting excited about wines like this.

Lenn Thompson: Sheamaldi Farms 2010 Ida Red/Golden Delicious Cider
I'm lucky to have several friends who are not only beer/wine/cider/spirits geeks, but also brew or make their own at home.

My colleague Mark Grimaldi and his wife Olivia have been making cider from apples -- by crushing them, not via purchased juice -- for a few years now for their own consumption under the "Sheamaldi Farms" label (Olivia's maiden name is Shea). Mark shared a couple bottles with me a while back and I stumbled upon them in my wine cellar recently.

I'm not a big cider guy, but I can recognize well-made cider when I taste it -- particularly after a failed attempt at making it myself a couple years ago.

Drier than I expected, this blend of 70% Ida Red and 30% Golden Delicious apples, all grown in the Finger Lakes, isn't complex or funky like some ciders I've had, but it also doesn't have the bitter tannins I've experienced as well. It didn't last long in my glass. It was easy drinking and refreshing -- which is just what I'm looking for when I turn to cider.

David Flaherty: Black Maple Hill Small Batch Bourbon
I've been hunting you down for a while. At times, I've beat the brush with muscle-tearing ferocity to ferret you out. I've exhausted myself to the point of frustration and ceased to believe you actually existed. Snipe hunting, you ask? No. Bourbon hunting.

Black Maple Hill is a legend in the whiskey world. Stories of its production by an eccentric distiller in the backwoods of Kentucky are ubiquitous. Small batch, handmade, heavenly, the usual stuff. But as the spirits buyer for our restaurant group, I couldn't get my hands on the stuff for years. Out of stock, switched distributors, slipped into the ether, ya da ya da ya da. It went on and on. At one point, I would have traded a T206 Honus Wagner baseball card just to get me a bottle. The more I couldn't find it, the more I wanted it.

On a fluke last week, a fleeting whim, a strange email was sent to me (but actually labelled, "Dear Frank"), I got some. Four bottles arrived at our establishment, and I quickly bought one and ferreted it home in my bag. I felt like I was carrying the Holy Grail with drooling, sword-carrying maniacs hot on my tail. I nearly pinched myself when I was peeling back its wax-dipped layer. The anticipation was great.

Notes of vanilla, baking spice, butterscotch and oak rose from my glass. For a 95 proof spirit, it drinks ridiculously smooth but NEEDS that ice cube to provide just the proper dilution. My favorite things about is the mouthfeel. Rolling it over the tongue is akin to sitting down to a plate of syrup-drenched waffles where the syrup and the butter have mixed together. Its a viscous, oily, hypnotic elixir.

Was it worth the hype? Man, I'd love to say it was...but things rarely live up to our expectations after years of hyperbole. In fact, my favorite Bourbon of 2011 was from Breuckelen Distilling. But if you're a whiskey fan and see you see the BMH on the shelf, snag it! Trust me, it won't be there long.

What We Drank (January 4, 2012)

Here is a smattering of what our contributors were drinking over the holidays...

Lenn Thompson: Troeg's Brewery Perpetual IPA
Sometimes, a brewery's top-flight reputation can almost be a hindrance. Troeg's Brewery is one of my favorite east coast breweries. Of course they brew one of my all-time faovrites -- Nugget Netcar -- but all of their stuff is good, even the stuff made in styles that I don't typically reach for.

So when I saw this for the first time on my local beer shop's shelf on New Year's Eve, I grabbed it without thinking. My instincts told me that Troeg's knows their way around hops and that this is a beer I'd probably love.

And... well... it's a good beer. Not something I'd seek out again, but not something I'd not drink happily. My expectations were high and as such, perhaps this beer had little chance of meeting them.

It's balanced and very citrusy in its hop profile -- but seems almost light on the palate (even at 7.5% abv), lacking the malty backbone that many of my favorite IPAs have.

Of course, if it had that backbone, it'd be an awfully lot like Nugget Nectar, which it's not. Expectations can be a bitch.

Evan Dawson: Dominus Estate 1991 Napa Valley<
Some generous friends shared a magnum of this wine to help us count down to 2012. And what a way to do it. The next time someone tells you that Napa can't make elegant wines, don't believe it.

 

The winemaking is impeccable, but that's perhaps not even doing it justice. Proprietor Christian Moueix has explained that he refuses to acidify under any circumstances. He instructs crews to pick earlier than many Napa producers. And he decided to increase yields when everyone else seemed to be cutting yields; Moueix has said that this keeps the vines in balance and allows for lower-alcohol, physiologically ripe wines with good acid. Just imagine.

One other word about this wine: Magnums are underrated, sexy, often unaffordable for me, and if I haven't mentioned it yet, sexy.

Happy New Year, indeed.

Tracy Weiss: Apple-Cinnamon Maker's Mark
Imagining a snow-covered scene complete with pre-midnight snow angels, this updated classic would be the perfect drink to warm up our celebration. And what’s easier than throwing cinnamon sticks and sliced Fuji Apples into a container with a bottle I already had on hand?

As the cocktail marinated for three days, I looked on, as proud as if I had distilled it myself.

Fantastically mild weather ‘forced’ us to abandon the hot toddy portion of the agenda. Instead, we threw back the apple bourbon unadorned or with a splash of Canada Dry Ginger Ale. The result: holiday fun in a glass. The blend was smoky, earthy, smooth, and honeyed – the combination you’d expect from the simple sum of these parts. It reminded me of an alcoholic breakfast cereal, not that I’d recommend imbibing that early in the a.m.

Perhaps I’ll get my chance to sample this heated beverage as intended in a winter landscape later this year. But for now, Apple Cinnamon Maker’s Mark set the tone for a quiet cozy celebration.

Rochelle Bilow: A Finger Lakes Duo
My boyfriend’s (who took this picture) birthday was last week, or, as I’ve come to call it: his excuse for breaking into our most
treasured corner of the wine cellar.

The two wines he chose to have before and with dinner couldn’t have been more different: a Ravines 2008 Argetsinger Dry Riesling, and a 2009 Dr. Konstantin Frank 2009 Cuvee d’Amour.

We’d been saving the Argetsinger mostly out of deference and respect – we were afraid no occasion was grand enough to open it. I’m glad we did, though, because I don’t remember the last time I had a riesling that pure and honest. The flavors were layered – was that a gentle trace of floral honey I detected? Lime candies? – but they were clean and easily understood.

Terroir is a difficult thing to define, on paper or in the glass, but I think that this wine exemplifies it well. (Of course, it helps to know a bit about grower Sam Argetsinger and his commitment to his vines.) My only regret is that we didn’t buy more than one bottle – I’d like to see how it changes in a year, two, three.

I remember tasting the Cuvee d’Amour at Dr. Frank last summer and thinking “Hm! How interesting!” Five months later, I still find it quite interesting, but not as pleasant. There’s a bit too much twang and wang for me, with an almost-sour finish. It did improve – as most wine does – with dinner. An intensely flavored lamb burger seemed to speak its language. The grapes are native to Sibera and Northern China, admittedly placing this wine out of my knowledge zone. I seem to remember our taster that day suggesting we cellar it for ten years, but who am I to argue with a birthday boy? Anyway, I see no reason why we can’t try again with another bottle.

Looking forward to tasting what next year’s birthday uncorks.

What We Drank (December 14, 2011)

Here's a sampling of what our contributors and editors are drinking...

Donavan Hall: Brooklyn Brewery Black Chocolate Stout
When the days get shorter giving way to the early approach of darkness, and the air picks up a chill, my taste for beer darkens and, instead of a thirst quencher, I want something to warm me up. Brooklyn Brewery's Black Chocolate Stout does just that. At 10% ABV, this one is a sipper, but it's not so big that it doesn't play nicely with others. Last night, I cracked open this bottle and paired it with a selection of cheeses we'd brought home from a recent visit to C'est Cheese in Port Jeff.

The Black Chocolate Stout is one of Brooklyn's winter specialties, always brewed in limited batches and marked with the year of its production. This beer is one of the connoisseurs who like to do vertical tastings. You can profitably cellar BCS for years. Though my bottles tend to get consumed. If you want to store the beer, keep it at cellar temperatures, but for serving you'll want to let it stand for awhile and warm up. Don't drink this beer cold or you'll miss some wonderful flavors and won't be able to appreciate the balance.

This tar colored beer is rich and thick. Just about every dark flavor your can think of is blended here to perfection. The chocolate flavor all comes from the malt, but together with the chocolate is a dark roast coffee, tobacco, and black cherries. Enjoy!

Evan Dawson: Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou 2005 Croix de Beaucaillou
I enjoyed this wine, and didn't, and was impressed, and wasn't. It's exactly why I don't desire to drink much Bordeaux.

Let me explain, because I sound like a politician. This wine, the second wine of a highly regarded second growth, comes from a tremendous vintage. It's nicely made and well built. But it's not memorable, no matter what the high scores for this wine would have you believe. And that's most Bordeaux: Nice, solid, boring.

This is unfair as a generalization, so let me elaborate. The best Bordeaux is stunning, the kind of stuff I wish were more affordable for more people. It's sad to think how few of us will drink the best Bordeaux anymore. I've been fortunate enough to enjoy first-growth Bordeaux in its prime, and it shows the kind of stature that most wines will never sniff. Second-growth and third can reach those heights, too. But below that level, Bordeaux rarely thrills. I think of a huge range of wine from Piedmont or the Rhone Valley or the Loire or the Mosel that simply excites me. Wines that I can buy for $18 or, as was the case with this bottle, $55. Those regions regularly provide character to go with quality -- rough edges and distinction.

Anymore, Bordeaux often only provides quality, not character. It's careful. Nice nose, predictable descriptors, smooth and good-tasting, varietally correct. That hardly sounds like a criticism, but where's the personality?

Tracy Weiss: Hog's Head Ale
The truth? I am not much of a beer drinker. I shunned keg stands and Natty Light in college and concentrated on my first obsession, Jack Daniels. But now loving wines the way I do, I’ve started to appreciate the flavors and layers of well-crafted beer. Which is why when I traveled to Hogsmede (aka Universal Studio Florida’s Harry Potter land), I was excited to try the Hog’s Head Ale.

Available in the Hog’s Head Pub, a place that feels “Brit lite” ripped from the pages of JK Rowling’s series, the namesake ale looked to my untrained eye like an approximation of Killian’s.

The beer had clean flavors with a hint of caramel and a nutty quality to it. It was chewy, but not unpleasantly so. It wasn’t the best beer and I have ever tasted or a shine to the hop, but in the venue it seemed to make sense. Also interesting is that it was created exclusively for the park and allegedly is imported from Scotland. I was also extremely happy to see alcoholic beverages in a theme park and a dark place to sit down and hide from small children.

As for the Hog’s Head Ale, I might have one or two just to get into the spirit of things, but then will stick to the Strongbow in the future.

What We Drank -- Thanksgiving Edition

Today, we offer a sampling of what our contributors and editors were drinking on Thanksgiving day and over the holiday weekend....

Julia Burke: Schulze Vineyards, Leonard Oakes Estate Winery, Arrowhead Spring Vineyards, and Homemade Wine
My family members all love wine but couldn't be more different, so I went a little overboard in my Thanksgiving wine shopping spree in a quest to make sure I had something for each of my loved ones, from my sixty-eight-year-old father (a zinfandel lover) to my twenty-one-year-old sister (likes "dollar bombs" and known to hit the Four Loco on occasion).

I started with plenty of Schulze's sweet Crackling Catawba and Vidal blanc de blanc knowing my sister would love the bubbles, then rounded out the list with Leonard Oakes 2010 riesling and traminette to appeal to my mother's taste for aromatic whites; Arrowhead Spring 2008 cab franc and cab sauv for me and my wine-geek-in-the-making man slave and big-red-loving dad; and finally a bottle of my homemade 2010 pinot noir for me or in case anyone was feeling particularly geeky. 

Sometimes even the people you know best can surprise you. When I cracked my pinot to throw a little in a pan of roasted onions, my whole family crowded around to taste it and the bottle was half empty within ten minutes. I, on the other hand, ended up chugging Leonard Oakes reserve riesling; in fact, I blame its incredibly addictive sippitude for causing me to accidentally set a placemat on fire while passing a plate of pumpkin muffins (no muffins or riesling were harmed). As we ended the night curled up in the family room for our traditional Thanksgiving-night Home Alone viewing, I caught my guy sneaking Crackling Catawba ("Don't judge me!") while my sister went for a second glass of… Arrrowhead cab franc. And my pinot? Gone before I ever had a chance to pour a glass for myself.

I'm thankful for a family willing and open-minded enough to drink stuff I made and stuff I love. Thankful for local wine good enough to make an amazing Thanksgiving meal even better. And thankful for surprises. It wouldn't be the holidays without them.

Bryan Calandrelli: Baumard Savenniéres 2008
Wines from Savenniéres are not the easiest to find so I was stoked to find this one. Needing only a wine-centric holiday for an excuse to drop $25 on a white, I picked it up and opened it right before Thanksgiving dinner.
 
Gobs of white peach, pear, apricot with subtle hints of tropical fruit aromas all found their way out of the glass along with some less intoxicating aromas of cheese indicating some maloactic fermentation.

Since I’m not the biggest fan of malo in my unoaked whites I wasn’t digging the nose as I thought I would’ve.
 
On the palate though it was a creeper, slowly building in intensity through the finish with textured layers and a slight bitterness at the end. A little too cerebral for a turkey binge but in a blind setting this wine would surely be an attention grabber.
 
Stelvin closure too, I thought this region was known for its age worthy dry whites?

Lenn Thompson: Wines from Long Island and the Finger Lakes (and Beaujolais too)
For me, Thanksgiving -- especially one spent with more than just a few people -- is a day to open a lot of different wines and see what happens.

This year, with my wife due in early December with our second child, my family from Pittsburgh joined us here on Long Island for the holiday -- which just exacerbated the need to open a variety of wines.

I started with bubbly of course, and it's amazing how quickly a bottle goes with a half dozen people drinking. A bottle of Sparkling Pointe 2000 Brut Seduction was gone before I even turned around, meaning that I had to crack into a bottle of Hermann J. Wiemer 2006 Cuvee Brut.

I tend to stick with riesling, pinot and gamay on Thanksgiving and there was plenty of that around, including Hermann J. Wiemer 2009 Riesling Reserve Dry, Lamoreaux Landing 2009 Red Oak Vineyard Riesling, Heart & Hands 2009 Hobbit Hollow Vineyard Pinot Noir, Anthony Nappa Wines 2007 "Nemesis" Pinot Noir and Christian Bernard's 2009 Red Table Select Block Gamay (Fleurie).

I knew that certain family members prefer dry whites (no matter how much acidity an off-dry riesling may have) and that some even like -- gulp -- oak-apparent chardonnay, but I wasn't about to open any flabby west coast editions. Instead, I also opened Channing Daughters 2008 Vino Bianco and 2008 Brick Kiln Chardonnay. Both were enjoyed and emptied quickly.

I had a couple dessert wines planned for the homemade apple pie and pumpkin pudding (Jackson's favorite) but we never quite got to them. I went back for another glass of the Wiemer riesling instead.

David Flaherty: Southampton Publick House, Vic (Antique Porter Aged in Wood), New York (7.2% abv)

Along with the obligatory bottles of wine on my Thanksgiving table this year (a fantastic Cab Franc from St Nicolas de Bourgueil and a nice bottle of Chassagne Montrachet Rouge), I feel everyone who appreciates fine bevies should, must, needs to have a beer on the holiday table to balance the fun. I'd been saving this bottle of Vic for a couple of months now, biding my time until the right occasion.

I opened it with dessert thinking, "Oh yeah, this is going to be a rich, malty porter that will be just dynamite with our homemade pecan pie." I couldn't have been more wrong. This is NOT a porter you may be thinking of...this is something else entirely. 

Under the skilled guidance of Brewmaster Phil Markowski, Southampton brewed a style of porter that one may have experienced in 19th century Britain. 

Aged in red wine barrels and with a dosing of Brettanomyces, it is more sour than rich. I quickly shifted gears, pulled the beer and pie apart and enjoyed them separately. NOT a good food match. BUT a damn good bear. Sharp and vinous, with a dry tang on the finish. Chocolaty flavors, yet more like that of a red wine. Effervescent and smooth. 

Sometimes you just need to recalibrate what you're expecting when someone tells you what "style" you're drinking. Porter today is not the porter of yesteryear.

Tracy Weiss: Wine Tasting Class in the Poconos
Most people spend this holiday drinking a favorite ‘Turkey approved’ bottle while fending off inappropriate questions from relatives. This year, my husband and I decided to shun our families and hole up at a spa in the Poconos. Happily, I noted a wine tasting scheduled late in the afternoon on Thanksgiving Day. How wonderful! I’d get to try *multiple bottles* of fine wine instead of committing to the one I generally polish off myself since I am the only person in my nuclear family who likes fruits of the wine.

This class was a total bust. I disliked three out of the six bottles presented. This is important to note, as I will drink almost ANYTHING if there is cheese involved. After the first two glasses, I go to a happy place where I rationalize and try and find the good in every wine. So if I don’t like something -- it has got to be heinous.

The winner though was Simonnet Febvre Saint-Bris 2009 Sauvignon Blanc. I was excited about this wine because I didn’t know they produced Sauv Blanc in Burgundy. I’m used to seeing Chablis and expected this to suck. Hooray! It didn’t. I found it refreshing with a good balance of acidity. Great citrus flavor and the mineral component I like. Bright like a flashlight and a good value for what it is.

Runner Up: 2007 Chateau La Tour-de-By, Medoc, which saved the day after two disappointing reds. A full-bodied sip showed all the characteristics I’d expect while staying simple and a little leathery. There was a note of pencil shavings that made me want to stop by my 3rd grade classroom to revisit the smell.

The wine I'd label "The Worst" from the tasting was Chateau Les Revilles 2008 Blanc. For this family oriented holiday I feel like I should try and keep this clean, but the expletives that crossed my mind after pushing my nose into this glass would make even the grizzled team at the New York Cork Report blush. This wine smelled like your pee after you eat asparagus. A LOT of asparagus. It smelled like kitty litter. And tasted only slightly better. I shoved blue cheese into my mouth as fast as I could hoping the strong flavor would magically transform this white like Cinderella’s Fairy Godmother. It didn’t happen. The only upside to this product was that it was free. And then my Husband reminded me we paid $30 for the class.

Evan Dawson: Jean Paul Brun 2009 Brouilly
If you're not drinking Jean Paul Brun's Cru Beaujolais, it's no big deal. You're simply missing the greatest value wines in the world.

$17 for this bottle, which is offensive.

It's aggressively aromatic and more complex with its lightish body than you might assume. It's also a Cru Beauj that does not see carbonic maceration, so the profile is more varied. 

When writers wax on about minerality in red wines, sometimes they're sincere. Sometimes they're bull-shitting. This wine should be poured for anyone who wants to know what a minerally red wine smells and tastes like. It's lip-smackingly beautiful, and you can still find it in stores. What are you waiting for?

What We Drank (November 22, 2011)

Here's a sampling of what our editors and contributors have been drinking...

David Flaherty: Eve's Cidery Rustica
We're currently pouring a cocktail at Hearth that features Eve's apple cider and it's flying off the shelf like a freshly baked apple pie left unattended on the windowsill to cool.  

I first became smitten with Eve's Cidery a few months ago when I met two of the core members (yes, I totally wrote 'core' unintentionally -- but now upon realizing it, I'm enamored by my unprovoked cleverness, so I'll leave it) Ezra Sherman and Autumn Stoscheck at an industry tasting that preceded NY Cider Week. Working with sixth-generation orchardist, James Cummins, they call the Finger Lakes home.  

Our initial conversation was memorable and swung from sugar addition during fermentation to the practice of gas drilling in the area using the controversial technique of "fracking." They're cool folk; passionate, intelligent and grounded. Plus, they make some damn fine juice.

So, tonight, I'm giving their Rustica a try. On the still side with just a touch of natural carbonation, it's earthy on the nose with notes of dried leaves, pear skin and honey. On the palate, it's definitely on the sweeter side but there's a zip of tannic acid that grounds it and leaves my palate wanting another hit.

It's a lip smacker, for sure.  Full-bodied and viscous on the tongue, it feels like an effervescent, liquid, apple honey and finishes lifted and clean.  

Lenn Thompson: Schneider Vineyards 2006 Brut Rose
Most of my favorite wine writers often write about context -- about how the people you're with and where you are can add to, or detract from, how one experiences a wine.

This Schneider 100% syrah bubbly had heaps of "context" going for it. My colleague Mark Grimaldi brought it with recently him when his family met mine for brunch at a great little diner that was new to me. The food (get the egg sliders and a side of duck fat fries), the friends and the conversation could have lifted most any bubbly to "just about perfect" status. But guess what? This wine would have been good anywhere.

Schneider Vineyards will be familiar to many who have followed Long Island wines -- Bruce Schneider made many of my favorite cabernet francs for years, but hasn't made anything under the label since 2007. Now, he focuses on his work with Onabay Vineyards and Gotham Project. This sparkler will be the first release under his label in years.

2006 wasn't a great year for reds on the North Fork and Bruce tells me that his sryah grapes "were stuck at ripeness level only to make rose and one with screaming high acid, even for me as an acid lover" so he decided to make rose in her favorite style -- with bubbles. "It was the only wine I could think of making with the grapes with a chance for making something I would enjoy drinking," he told me.

He only made 70 cases, but if you see it somewhere, check it out.

Evan Dawson: Giuseppe Cortese 2010 Dolcetto d'Alba
You have probably found yourself thirsting for a particular wine after reading about it. Writers tend to experience the same cravings when we're composing a story. So while I put together a piece about Dolcetto for Palate Press, I felt compelled to crack this bottle.

And it begs the same question I raise in my piece: Doesn't the world need simple, lunch wines? Should some grapes remain happily limited in the wines they produce?

In Piedmont, most producers view Dolcetto as a workhorse, a functional lunch wine, nothing complex or exceptional. But a small group of producers views it much differently; they believe that, given the same consideration often accorded to Nebbiolo, Dolcetto can develop into something substantial. 

This particular Dolcetto has no such identity crisis. Simple, solid, straightforward. It's what most people want out of this variety. I'm open-minded to something far more complex, however, and the research continues...

Rochelle Bilow: Wagner Vineyards 2008 Dry Riesling
We started (okay, and finished) a bottle of Wagner 2008 Dry Riesling on Monday night to go with a
hodge-podge dinner.

I love this wine. It’s bright and lively, with a subdued sort of elegance not always found in rieslings. The nose is full of citrus flower -- lime, orange blossom -- and that follows through on
the palate.

I find this riesling to be much more herbaceous and perfume-forward than the oft-found luscious tropical fruit that can sometimes feel sticky or overly juicy. I sometimes fall into the “Rieslings are for summer” mindset, but this is one that feels right all year round.

Mark Grimaldi: Cigar City Brewing "Jai Alai" IPA
I was first introduced to this beer a couple years ago by a good friend and beer geek who is a lover of all things IPA. He brought it over to the house this summer and reminded me again just how stinkin' good this beer is. I had never seen it around until last week, so I grabbed a six-pack at my local distributor. Totally pumped. 

Cigar City Brewing is out of Tampa, FL. I never equate Florida with beer, let alone "craft" beer. I never even equate Florida with anything good other than maybe some fresh seafood, oranges, some surfable waves here and there, shark attacks, Disney World, old people in Cadillacs, some really nice water temps. It's where my family has lived for over a decade now, and it's a struggle when we visit them to find a good go-to wine shop, restaurant with great wine list, and local produce. It just seems like people don't care as much for that kind of thing as we do up here in the northeast.

I basically drink rum drinks the whole time while trying to avoid speakers everywhere blaring Jimmy Buffett. 

They've changed my outlook with this single beer. It's great to see something of this quality coming from the sunshine state. The "Jai Alai" IPA is a deep amber/copper color. On the nose it smells like honey, with a grassy (both the legal and illegal kind) note from the hops.

In the mouth it's rich and fruity but no where near cloying, round, broad mid-palate with just the right amount of hoppy bitter notes on the finish. There is also a really pretty floral note, almost like a dandelion flower that I can taste, and the finish is backed up by a citrus-driven kick of acid. 

I dislike IPAs that are brutally bitter. This is not one of them. It actually reminds me a lot of the 2XIPA from Southern Tier, one of my favorite beers ever. This is a really nice, well balanced IPA that packs a punch of complex flavors without being annoying.I enjoy from front to back thoroughly.

Tracy Weiss: McCall Wines 2007 Ben's Blend
Each autumn, I hold out as long as I can before putting away my sundresses and sauv blancs. I kept to my summer wine routine for most of October refusing to believe it is time. But, with the snowstorm a few weeks ago, I could no longer deny what Game of Thrones and my flip-flop cased feet were telling me. Winter is coming.

I greeted November kicking and screaming with McCall Vineyards 2007 Ben’s Bordeaux Blend. Cabernet Franc has been a favorite way to welcome snow season without blowing out my buds California cab sauv-style. This meritage was selected with that in mind. Ben’s is a blend of McCall merlot with cab franc, petit verdot and cabernet sauvignon. And it hit the spot.

In a clichéd word -- it was smooth. I loved the mouth feel and knew I’d be happy with the taste as soon as the red stained my lips. I picked up red fruit with a hint of my grandfather’s long retired pipe. The slightly spicy tobacco infusion paired well with both the ragu bolognese and my memory of the scent on Pop’s orange cashmere sweater. Like some of my St. Emilion favorites, a touch of oak created a well-rounded balance unlike some other blends that runs rampant.

Made by McCall’s in their first year, I say it’s a perfect gateway wine to winter. And to a second bottle.

What We Drank (November 2, 2011)

Here's a sampling of what we've been drinking this week...

Dave Seel: Pellegrini Vineyards 2007 Chardonnay
I'm a big fan of finding good wine at decent prices. I'll literally spend almost an hour in a wine shop, scouring the regions and vintages trying to find that perfect balance of cost vs. quality. Of course, my definition of "a decent price" may be different from some. Of course, it's changed over the years. There was a time when finding an awesome wine for dinner at $16 was considered a good deal in my book. Don't get me wrong, I love a good $15-$20 dollar bottle, but as life has taken over, diapers and dog food have worn away at the old nightly wine budget. Now, I'm psyched if I can find something worth drinking for under or around $10 bucks. It's not an easy task and I've had to stomach some pretty unimpressive wines, but every once in a while I find a steal and the search is totally worth it.

Last week, I was on the search in a small neighborhood wine shop known for its quality of selection. Initially I was intrigued by a row of Portuguese wines, good for both their European flavors and price point. But then my eyes drew me elsewhere, just beyond a row of Merlot, was a perfect value gem. The 2007 Pellegrini Chardonnay on clearance...for only $6.99. I'd recently tried this Long Island chardonnay at the Winebar at The Portly Grape and new both the wife and I dug it.

It's a great wine to pair with seafood, chicken, or even a pork dish. We were having chicken soup that particular night and the chardonnay's tart apple, slight vanilla and nutty flavors paired nicely with my herb-tastic version of the soup. Even if you can't find it on clearance, it's a great example of a good Long Island white and is perfect on it's own or with food. I'm not giving away my secret stash, but if you scout out Long Island's North Shore wine shops, you may just find this gem, waiting patiently for you to take it home and prove to you that cheap doesn't always mean bad.

Mark Grimaldi: Billsboro Winery 2010 Syrah
I was off popping into some Seneca Lake wineries last weekend while we were up visiting family.  One of my stops was Billsboro.  Having been really impressed with their Riesling in the past I was excited to taste the current release.  What I wasn't prepared for was to taste their Syrah. 

MIND BLOWN. 

It wasn't blown because the wine was good, because I know Vinny Aliperti can make good wine, it was blown because I guess I was not expecting to taste that much fruit, with that much varietal correctness from a Finger Lakes Syrah. It's just never been a region I've associated with this variety. But if there was a year to ripen Syrah, I guess it was 2010.

It's color was deep, but bright, and screamed of freshness, and when I looked at it all I could think was that this feeling would follow through onto the palate as well.  On the nose, red berries jump at you, with just a slight hint of that white pepper I usually pick up in the Northern Rhone. It smelled great.

The palate was lively, and fun, almost bouncy with a real savory quality to it. The fruit and tannins came together elegantly, and perfectly ripe for my tastes. Nicely balanced acid and a finish that made me want another sip before it even ended.  It's not complex, and you don't have to try hard to understand it.  It was just a really juicy, delicious, balanced red that I would have no problem having in heavy rotation on the table. 

The only problem is that they only make something like 150 cases.  I believe the fruit comes from "Sawmill Creek Vineyard", which the more and more I taste from this vineyard, has me thinking that if the Finger Lakes could have a grand or 1er Cru vineyard site one day, this would be one of them.

Evan Dawson: Chateau Lascombes 2002
Nice to be reminded that even wine with a pedigree -- second-growth Bordeaux! -- can be fat, boring, utterly lacking distinction or a sense of place. Not a legendary vintage, but my quarrel has nothing to do with the vintage.

This wine was almost silly. Extracted and black, it felt like a wine that was trying too hard from the get-go.

Often we hear vignerons claim, "The fruit can stand up to the oak." In this case, no, it can not. The oak overwhelms the nose, with brown sugar and Starbucks caramel macchiato offering the clearest sense of aromatics, followed by vaguely dark fruits.

The structure is fine; nothing to complain about, and the fine-grained tannins work nicely at this stage. But even after several hours open, the wine had not improved beyond a rather one-dimensional, awkward effort.

Hard to say I'd have gone with Bordeaux had I tasted it blind.

Lenn Thompson: Aarrowhead Spring Vineyards 2009 Pinot Noir
Lots of people talk about a lack of quality pinot noir in the under-$20 category. Well, here's one $18 pinot from the Niagara Escarpment that is more than, "decent for the money."

It's downright good and might be my favorite New York pinot that I put in my mouth this year.

Fresh, bouncy and all about crunchy cherry-cranberry flavors up front, the finish turns soft and silky with light spice and beautiful dried fall leaves earthiness on the finish.

It remains to be seen whether Niagara USA will become pinot country or cabernet franc country -- but this wine sure makes the case for pinot.

You won't see any "perfect Thanksgiving wine" commentary on this website, but I could see this on my table in a few weeks.

Best of all, I will soon have ready access to this wine on Long Island -- more on that tomorrow though.

What We Drank (October 26, 2011)

Here's a sampling of what our editors and contributors have been drinking...

Evan Dawson: Chateau Frank 2006 Blanc de Blancs and Lenz 2005 Cuvee
Two New York sparklers were chosen as part of a sparkling wine masterclass in Brescia, Italy earlier this month during the European Wine Bloggers Conference. The organizers chose two wines apiece from Champagne, Cava, England, Franciacorta and New York State.

The New York sparkling wines showed very nicely in what was an impressive flight of wines. The overflowing room, sold out at 40 people and consisting mostly of European writers, buzzed about the strengths and personalities of each pair of wines. New York was not an exception.

Dr. Frank's 2006 Blanc de Blancs played both edges of the genre, with plenty of cut to accompany a touch of richness. The Lenz 2005 Cuvee was super-fresh, begging for seafood. I heard more than one writer in the audience remark about how nice it would be to have a plate of shellfish with this wine.

High-quality sparkling wine does not simply come from a cool climate and grapes with high acidity. Special soils and the right balance, derived from a convergence of brix and acidity at harvest, are key. Cheers to the these ambassadors from New York.

Mark Grimaldi: Mario Marengo 2010 Dolcetto d'Alba
Every year, I await the release of Marengo's Dolcetto. It's one of my favorites. Only 50 cases come into the tri-state area, so it's pretty scarce, but it's a wine that is as quintessential to fall for my me and my wife as picking a pumpkin or eating a local apple is.

Marengo is a tiny domaine, like under 1000 cases tiny, and that includes his regular Barolo, two Cru Barolos ("Brunate" and "Bricco le Viole"), a little Nebbiolo d'Alba, and a smattering of Barbera, and this Dolcetto. One reason Marengo is my favorite, is because he hails from La Morra, and it's a commune in Barolo I hold dear. La Morra's wines are different from the other communes. The soils are sandier, which always give the wines this sort of pretty, feminine, floral aromatics, while still harnessing the power that comes from the Barolo region that everyone knows and loves.

This Dolcetto is deep in color, and thins at the rim to an electric pink garnet color. It smells like a blueberry pie, with a touch of indian spice. On the palate it's simple, with a pure blast of fruit, with good acid that creeps around your tongue up to the roof of your mouth, followed by a bit of grip from the tannins to bring things to a close. The finish is just kind of fades away saying "Whatever, man, im not trying to pretend to be something I'm not". And it isn't. After all, Dolcetto is a simple, unpretentious wine, something that just belongs on your table with family, friends, and a big bowl of pasta. And for $15 retail, this will always have a place on ours.

Lenn Thompson: Strong Ryeland ESB, a Greenport Harbor Brewing and Southampton Ales Collaboration
Monday night's sold-out NYCR Artisan dinner, showcasing five beers from Greenport Harbor Brewing, was our fourth such dinner, and perhaps the most fun for me because I really enjoy talking about beer with people in the wine industry, especially people who I taste wine with regularly.

When we taste wine together, we inevitably spend a lot of time analyzing it, looking of faults, pointing out intricacies and discussion tannin structure, potential longevity and the like.

Sitting down to drink locally made beers with the same group is more about enjoying ourselves. Sure, we geek out plenty, asking the brewer questions about alcohol levels, inspirations and where he gets his hops, but we don't over-analyze to the point of becoming academia. I like that on occasion.

Of the five beers we tried Friday night -- a couple for the first time for me -- my favorite was the Strong Ryeland, a collaboration between Greenport Harbor and Southampton. It's a riff on a traditional English ESB that features a serious dose of rye malt.

I love the ESB style as a session beer -- far too few American craft brewers make this style -- and at 5.5% abv, this one qualifies. It was served from a pin, a small cask, with two types of dry hopping. Lightly malty, caramelly and grainy there is a subtle hoppy character here that comes through grassy and a bit citrusy. Finishing dry with a distinct nuttiness, I can see myself sitting at a bar and drinking several of these in a session.

David Flaherty: Sarasola Sagardoa Basque Cider
With Cider Week now rolling back to its bucolic hills and orchards, I realize I've drank a lot of the hard apple stuff lately. While I'm a sucker for all things local and was super stoked to meet the great artisans plying their trades in the Finger Lakes and Hudson Valley, I'm finding a certain fascination with the ciders from the Basque country of Spain. Admittedly, I'm an acidhound. Be it top-notch Rieslings or cocktails made with shrubs (adding a vinegary zip), I'm drawn to the beverages that twist my mouth up in a knot and hold it captive for a few moments. A rolling coaster ride of sensation. Sure, give me balanced flavor and clear fruit, but if you can grab me by the lapels, pull me in close and stare me down with a fervor, you've got my attention.

Clocking in at 6% abv, the Sarasola Sagardoa is one such beast of acidity. Produced in the "natural" style (simply meaning non-sparkling and completely still), this Basque cidra hails from the apple growing hills of Astigarraga near San Sebastian. It's unfiltered and unpasteurized and, if you were having it in the Basque country, would be served directly from the barrel. Aromas of peach, oranges and yeast with a tart apple flavor and generous minerality. And when I say "tart," I mean it. This is akin to sneaking the freshly squeezed lemon juice from your grandmother's fridge before she adds the sugar for your lemonade. Yowza. Your mouth better be ready. I suggest having some food nearby; with the amount of mouth-watering going on, you'll be reaching for it.

What We Drank (September 13, 2011)

Today marks the triumphant return of "What We Drank" after a brief late-summer hiatus.

As always, here's what our editors and contributors have been drinking.

Mark Grimaldi: Ameztoi "Rubentis" Txakolina 2010

Yes, rosé again.  But not just any rosé. 

Txakolina is always, if you can find it, the quintessential summer quaffer. Now make it a rosé and you've damn near found the key to life.

A close friend from the city brought this out to our house one weekend this spring.

That Monday after, I asked a friend who owns a local wine shop if he would order it for me, and after we all geeked out about it, he ended up getting three cases that we split among 4 of us. It's comprised of 50% Hondarribi Beltza and 50% Hondarribi Zuri from the Getaria region of Basque in Spain.

Simply put, this is hands down the best rosé I have ever had. I was floored. A beautiful light strawberry color, with a nose of peaches, raspberries and citrus.

It's perfectly fizzy, with stone fruits, sweet but tart fruit on the mid palate reminiscent of a fresh glass of cranberry juice, finished with a beam of tart, mouth-watering acid and the perfect effervescence of a club soda with tiny, palate-coating bubbles.

At an alcohol of 10.5%,  we polished this bottle off so fast that it was dangerous. Be careful with this one, it's hard to have just one. 

 

Rochelle Bilow: Sheldrake Point Vineyards 2010 Gewurztraminer

Because I am heavily involved with the release of the 2010 vintage of Finger Lakes Rieslings this month,
it seems like they’re all I’m drinking. But that’s not so! I proved it on Sunday with Stu as we took a rare
day of all play and no work in the Finger Lakes.

We set up a picnic on the lawn at Sheldrake Point on Cayuga Lake and opened a bottle of their 2010
Gewurztraminer. It has a tremendous floral and spice nose that follows through on the palate. It leans
much more toward rose and dried lavender than the often-found tropical fruits, though there was a fair
amount of lychee that cropped up after a few minutes in the glass. I find with all Gewurztraminer, but this
one especially, that spending some time with the aroma is as fun as drinking it.

I loved this wine as an early fall choice – it feels more substantial and hefty than the Rieslings I’ve been
drinking, but it’s still much more lighthearted than the Cabernet Francs and Meritage blends I’m not quite
ready for.

 

Evan Dawson: Hermann J. Wiemer 2002 Blanc de Blancs

This was one of the rare occasions when we decided to open a sparkling wine to celebrate a big occasion. Typically, we try to incorporate sparkling as a nice food wine with friends, big occasion or not.

 

The wine world will be better off when sparkling wine is no longer viewed by many consumers as a strictly celebratory drink.

 

This wine was the first I grabbed from our sparkling rack. It has filled out nicely, a kind of baked bread coarsened by tingly acidity. Ideal sparkling wine for the region.

How was it that we allowed some mass-produced "champagne" to take us down this road of reserving such wines for festive occasions?

 

Aaron Estes: Templeton Rye

As much as I enjoy craft beer and New York wines, I grew up a scotch and whiskey drinker. On my 30th birthday, my father gave me a bottle of 30 year old Macallan that I continue to parse out, dram by dram, slowly but surely. I am hoping that it reaches my 40th birthday, as it is probably the finest whiskey I have ever tasted.  

But I digress...  This edition of WWD is about an American tradition that is gaining traction among those that follow what is hip and trendy. I am talking about rye.

A friend of mine, actually a fellow camp-mate from Burning Man (Thanks Genie!), first spoke of the taste and amazing qualities of Templeton Rye when we were on the Playa last year. Fashioned after the original recipe back in the days of Prohibition, Templeton out of Iowa is said to be created from the same recipe that Al Capone favored back in his days as the crime lord of Chicago. It was his preferred whiskey, and what he drank throughout his days while eluding the likes of Elliott Ness and the other members of the Chicago PD.

Can there be a better endorsement?

Templeton is smooth. Really smooth. It almost evaporates as soon as it hits the tongue. There is just a hint of smoke, but not harsh even in the slightest. A touch of sweetness, a bit of caramel, and a delicate scent of cedar on the nose.

This is a whiskey to be savored and cherished. I bring it out every now and then when I have had a difficult day at the office, or a weekend to share with friends who appreciate the same. Templeton is fantastic. I urge you all to find a bottle and enjoy a taste from American history.

 

Lenn Thompson: Ruckus Brewing Hoptimus Prime

Based on their performance, my favorite team, the Steelers, may not have realized it, but the NFL season kicked off over the weekend. I have a my myriad of superstitions tied to my watching of Steelers games -- and drinking at least one Pennsylvania-brewed beer during the game is chief among them.

Although Ruckus Brewing is headquartered in New York, NY, the beer is brewed in in Wilkes-Barre, PA -- not exactly Steelers country, but still within the boundaries of my home state.

Hoptimus Prime is a Double IPA style and it shows on the palate. There is some serious heft and density to the mouthfeel here.

The nose is classic American hoppiness -- all grapefruit and lemon with floral herbiness and just a little pine -- with some definite malty sweetness beneath.

I was actually a bit worried about that sweetness as I took my first sip, but I shouldn't have been. All those hops bring more than enough bitterness to scrub away the candy sugar and lift the citrus and pine qualities. It's a little thick for game day drinking (I started with it, but should have ended with it) but the bitterness nicely matched how I was feeling as I watched the game.

 

David Flaherty: Bonnezeaux, Chateau Perray Jouannet, Les Menus Clos, Loire, 2009

I don't get to drink enough sweet wines.  Well..let me rephrase that, I don't get to drink enough good sweet wines. 

For the last ten years that I have sold, studied, swirled and slugged wine, there has been one phrase uttered over and over again by people who are breaking into the world of wine (or at least trying to pick up a bottle that will impress the girl they're trying to woo): "I don't like sweet wines."  And I get it.  A lot of cheap swill has residual sugar and has gained a whack reputation (Boone's Strawberry Hill tonight, my darling?).  But a lot of the great wines of the world are sweet...and white.

I tried a Bonnezeaux the other day at a tasting of Loire wines and was floored. 

Such nervy acidity, such depth of character. Rich, honeyed fruit and such life, this liquid treasure could age and age for years to come. It sang from the glass. 

Bonnezeaux is a tiny area of the western Loire in the Anjou region where only white, sweet wines are permitted under AOC law. It is chenin blanc at its most expressive. I took pause, sat back in my chair and zapped into the experience...and the moment. 

That is what good wines do. Let me rephrase that: that is what great wines do.

 

What We Drank (August 4, 2011)

This week's "What We Drank" is a little heavy on cabernet franc, but that's no real surprise with the franc fanatics on the team.

Here's what our editors and contributors have been drinking.

Bryan Calandrelli: Cave des Vignerons 2005 Saumur
I got this for $6 at my local wine store! That's right six bucks. It must be turned, oxidized, or just a brett bomb right?

It's none of the above.

At this point of its life it's giving up ripe black cherry and blackberry aromas with a hint of red apple skin that I sometimes find in Loire reds from warmer vintages. It's luscious in the mouth and simply rustic enough to be interesting.

The store seems to buy this wine or similar versions of it from more specific appellations every year. This one obviously doesn't look attractive to the average customer so it went from $12 to $6 and Im not complaining.

I'm having it with soppressata, olives and fontina while I write.

 

Evan Dawson: Domaine des Ouches 2005 Bourgueil
The best value is still coming in waves from the Loire Valley, and the world's best cabernet franc is available for insultingly low prices. I picked up this bottle for $18.

It comes from a tremendous vintage, and it's not yet ready. Tannic, gripping, almost beastly despite a rather low alcohol level. We tried to drink this on its own, but it needs meat. It was much more round and enjoyable with food.

 

But the wine itself matters little. The message is the region. Anyone failing to take advantage of the Loire prices is reckless with their wine spending. Remember when other regions -- Northern Rhone, Chateauneuf, Piedmont -- weren't so expensive? There's no telling if Loire wines will eventually follow the trend. Let's hope not, but let's not wait to find out, either.

 

Lenn Thompson: Virginia Wineworks 2009 Cabernet Franc
More libations found themselves in contention for this week's WWD entry than the norm. I could have written about the Hermann J. Wiemer 2008 Riesling Reserve Dry I uncorked with Nena to celebrate the news that we're having a little girl in December. Or maybe the Roanoke Vineyards 2003 Blend Two that we opened together with friends the next night. And of course there were all of the Virginia wines and Georgia beers I tasted during the 2011 Wine Bloggers Conference.

Once I saw that two of my fellow fellow editors were writing about non-local cabernet franc, I couldn't help but join in the fun with this Virginia bag-in-box cab franc made by Michael Shaps.

I think you'll hear more about Virginia cabernet franc in years to come -- it shows good potential; more in a Bordeaux style versus a Loire one. Many I tasted showed too much oak (often American) for my tastes, but one of the wines of the wines that intrigued me the most was this Virginia Wineworks 2009 Cabernet Franc.

While no where near the most complex or age-worthy red I tasted down there, it's $30 for the equivalent of four standard 750ml bottle, it's a great value with nice dark fruit, subtle oak character and just a bit of that earthy spice franc lovers crave. If it were winter, a box of this would have come home with me and it'd be on my counter right now.

 

Julia Burke: Everything in Asheville, North Carolina
I spent the last several days in Asheville, North Carolina, the multiple-beergasm capital of the East.

Tales of this town's beer prowess having reached my ears all the way up north in Buffalo, I made a point of drinking almost exclusively local/NC brews during my four-day stay. (Almost. A Hanssen's Oudbeitje strawberry lambic at Thirsty Monk, one of my top five lifetime beer experiences, was the sole exception. I'm not apologizing.) I never ceased to be impressed. From my first pint, a crisp and refreshing French Broad kolsch at Bier Garden, to a final day of beer euphoria at the amazing Wedge Brewing Company culminating in one of the best pilsners I've ever had, I left this town amazed by the overwhelming diversity and quality of its beer culture.

Highlights included Green Man ESB, IPA and Porter; Asheville Brewing Company's Fire Escape jalapeno pale ale (really!) with a slice of jalapeno pizza; Highland Stout with Highland Stout cake at French Broad Chocolate Lounge; and a saison that seriously rocked my world at Wedge.

Wedge itself, a middle-of-nowhere brewery with a patio decor made up of used car parts, was no joke, with a killer saison that was incredibly funky, sour and delicious; a complex and roasty barleywine; and a truly addictive pilsner made in the traditional Czech style with a little bit of skunk and a whole lot of flavor.

People of Asheville: I apologize for the beer shortage that may have resulted from my presence. I'll bring wine next time.

Mark Grimaldi: Pannonhalmi Apatsagi 2010 Rosé
During the summer it's all about rosé for me and my wife. We drink A LOT of it. We usually steer towards Provencal, Italian and Long Island. But recently I picked up a few from other countries. 

We had some friends in town last Saturday and decided to head down to the beach. I grabbed a bottle of 2010 Pannonhalmi Apatsagi Rosé from Hungary. I've had their whites plenty of times, and they are always delicious. 

The winery is actually a monastery that has been making wine since the 900s, but during WWII they were taken over by communists and were not allowed to continue their traditions.  fter the fall of the regime the monks were able to revive their centuries-old winemaking traditions and with some help from a Tuscan winery.

The rosé is 50% pinot noir with the remainder equal parts merlot and cabernet franc and shows a beautiful darker salmon color. 

The nose was fresh and explosive with red fruit notes and pretty aromatics. The palate was full and almost creamy with a great boost of acidity to cut through the fruit at the back end. It paired perfectly with our Kunik cheeses, salami and salty air.

 

What We Drank (July 6, 2011): Dedicated to Deb Whiting, Dave Whiting and Red Newt Cellars

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

This week, we dedicate our What We Drank feature to Red Newt Cellars, winemaker Dave Whiting and especially Debra Whiting, who was taken from us and the world far too soon. And, we've invited members of the New York wine community and the extended NYCR family to take part as well. It's the least we can do for a woman and a family that has touched so many of us.

If you read this post and would like to send me your own submission, please do. I will keep adding onto this page as long as it takes to include everyone.

Evan Dawson, NYCR Managing Editor: Red Newt Cellars 2007 Viridescens

If you have a friend who proclaims a taste for modern, big reds, and doesn't believe such wines can come from the Finger Lakes, then I'd have you point them to Red Newt reds in hot vintages. Here's a perfect example.

This wine is unabashedly modern, ripe, and seamlessly melding the dark fruit, spice, and oak tones. It's about half cabernet franc, always a good start for a meritage blend from the Finger Lakes.

You know what? Don't tell your red-loving friend to try this wine.

Salute the Whiting style of wine appreciation: brown bag it, mix it in with other reds, and pair it with thoughtful cuisine. You'll have fun, you'll learn something, and you'll be reminded that food and wine are made for each other, like the Whitings we've come to love.

Tim Benedict, Hazlitt 1852 Vineyards: Red Newt Cellars Salamander White

On a beautiful 4th of July in the Finger Lakes I was fortunate enough to have a back yard picnic with family featuring traditional summer fare -- grilled sausage with peppers and onions, corn on the cob and potato salad.

To honor the occasion, and our friends the Whitings, the wine selection was Red Newt Salamander White.

This wine was surprisingly dry for a mostly hybrid blend which was a pleasant surprise, and had plenty of citrus fruit that went perfectly with our meal. This is a great summer wine!

I have known Dave Whiting for much of my life and Deb in recent years. They have been great colleagues and I have always been so impressed with what they have accomplished on that little hill in Hector.

Godspeed Deb, till we meet again.

Carlo DeVito, East Coast Wineries: Red Newt Cellars 2007 Glacier Ridge Vineyards Cabernet Franc

I met Dave and Deb Whiting for the first time in the early 2000s, the first year they started the winery. He had left Standing Stone, where he had rightfully been a star, and was now out on his own. He was excited and nervous all at the same time. He and his wife poured for us. They were gracious and chatty, and couldn't wait to tell you about their wines, but they also suggested other wines we should be drinking.

They were selling other people's wines.

Just weeks ago I talked with him, while he was doing a tasting event at Union Square Wines. He did not remember it. But we did. We were fans of theirs from that moment on.

I finally got a chance to eat at the restaurant last year, and it was a tremendous pleasure. It was nice to go to a restaurant and not have to scour the list for one or two New York wines, and it was nice to know that everything was seasonal and local. It was the perfect marriage of food and wine, and the meal was terrific.

So last night Dominique and I paid our homage. We had mixed grill of beef and chicken (both local – I mean 2-3 miles away tops) and local chard. And while all of it was simmering on the stove or crackling on the grill, we opened up a bottle of Cabernet Franc Glacier Ridge Vineyard 2007.

The wine was this big, purple-y, earthy cabernet franc, filled with deep fruits – lots of dark plum, cassis, dark blackberry, and dark cherry, with a nice chewiness, a slight whiff of lavender and tobacco, and a smooth, velvety finish. A fantastic wine with solid alcohol (13.7%) and great mouthfeel. This was truly an exquisite red. Easily one of the best red wines in the Finger Lakes.

With the local foods, it seemed a good fit and a tremendous way to celebrate two lives who’ve been huge in leading the way for New York wine.

Lenn Thompson, NYCR Executive Editor: Red Newt Cellars 2006 Riesling Reserve

So many wonderful things have been said about Deb Whiting over the last several days. Honestly, as far as I'm concerned, it's not enough. It never can be. I only spent time with her -- in person I mean -- a handful of times but each time I was struck by her genuine warmth, her generosity and the way she made every single person in the room feel like the most important one there.

And that doesn't even speak to her food and talents in the kitchen. From one of the best burgers I've ever had -- local, grass-fed beef of course -- to a simple green salad -- her cooking always exemplified her belief that when the food is fresh and local, it needn't be complicated to be amazing.

I also had the distinct pleasure of working together with Deb on several "Local with Local" posts for which I picked a Finger Lakes wine and she created a dish to pair with it. Her enthusiasm for the series -- and for most anything "local" -- always inspired me. Still does, in fact.

Last night, Nena and I toasted Deb, Dave and the entire Red Newt family with this bottle of 2006 Riesling Reserve, a bottle I've been holding onto for a few years with that unknown "special occasion" in mind.

Last night just seemed like the right time to open it.

What a beautiful wine that has really developed and improved with a few extra years of bottle age. The crisp apple and bright lime notes are still there, but the body has filled out with a bit of richness -- with more than enough citrusy acidity and much more slate minerality than I remember.

Every time I ate at Red Newt, I thanked Deb for her hospitality and for what was always a terrific meal. She always made a point of thanking me for being there -- as if me being there was as or more important than her role in the evening. It was a genuine sentiment.

We'll miss you, Deb. But you're legacy lives on in every restaurant kitchen and tasting room in the region. You will never be forgotten.

Dave McIntyre, Washington Post: Red Newt Cellars 2008 Glacier Ridge Vineyards Cabernet Franc

I only met Deb Whiting a few times over the years, and wouldn't presume to consider myself a friend, though when I last visited the Newt in May 2010 for a Riesling vertical wine dinner, I think it was pretty clear to her and Dave that I'm a fan of everything they've been doing over the years.

Since I heard the news of the accident, I've shed more than a few tears, because even though we weren't close, I felt a bond with them. I ate at the bistro twice, and drink the wines whenever I have the chance, and love them both.

I opened a Red Newt Glacier Vineyards Cab Franc 2008 tonight in their honor. It was delicious, lively and cheerful, and I consumed it even though it clearly had much potential ahead. Somehow, that seemed fitting.

  Paul Zorovich, @pzorovich: Red Newt Cellars 2009 Sawmill Creek Vineyards Riesling

I never met Deb Whiting, but my wife and I rarely miss an opportunity to eat at the Red Newt Bistro (sometimes multiple times in two days) on our frequent trips to the Finger Lakes, so I'm pretty familiar with her food. We usually drink the house wines when we're there -- how much more local can you get? -- and the last time we had lunch there, on my recommendation my wife got a glass of the Sawmill Creek Vineyard riesling. I'd first tasted it at an event here in New York City, and I thought then that it was one of the finest, most balanced dry rieslings I'd ever tasted. She agreed, although the Davis Vineyard riesling gave it serious competition.

We're members of the Times Union New York wine club, and recently our shipment included a bottle of the 2009 Red Newt Sawmill Creek Vineyard riesling. I still consider this one of the best examples of Finger Lakes riesling I can think of, with just enough acid, just enough minerality, and a hint of residual sugar.

When Lenn asked me if I'd contribute to this WWD, there was no question which bottle of Red Newt wine to open. I wish I had a few more bottles left.

Tom Mansell, NYCR Science Editor: Red Newt Cellars 2008 Viridescens

The word "viridescence" means having a green quality, but there are no real "green" notes in this 2008 Red Newt offering. Just about half-and-half cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc with a splash of merlot, the nose takes one from fresh-roasted coffee beans to rich blueberry to a hint of sulfury blackcurrant. In the mouth, the fresh acidity of the 2008 vintage supports alternating fruity honeydew and plum and savory rare beef and licorice notes. A soft but firm grip of tannins leads to a medium-long acid finish that leaves you wanting more.  

This is a delicious wine and a fine example of how the best producers will make great wines (even reds) in any vintage.

As I have gradually ingratiated myself into the Finger Lakes wine industry, I have been most impressed with the overall feeling of welcome I have received. Nobody has exemplified the art of welcoming like Deb and Dave Whiting. From the Bistro to the winery, everybody at Red Newt is on point. That's the culture that Dave and Deb have cultivated and it resonates from a central core of mutual respect, friendship, passion for their calling, and overall joie de vivre.

Several weeks ago I began preparing to take a postdoctoral research job out of state. As I did I thought back on all the wonderful people in this industry I would be leaving behind.  Dave and Deb where the absolute first ones that came to mind. The times I spent at the Newt are some of the most enjoyable I have had during my stay in the Finger Lakes. I just thought I would have a chance to say a proper goodbye before I left.  

Deb's legacy lives on in every amateur chef who tries to make a ravioli out of seasonal ingredients she never dreamed should go in a ravioli, in every shopper who chooses the local farmers market or CSA over more convenient options, and in every perfect pairing of local food and local wine. Her spark of passion for local food has helped ignite a blaze of locavore culture that shows no sign of dying out. She was warm, kind, generous, and always smiling. We will miss her tremendously.

It will be difficult, but I know that Dave and the Red Newt family have the help of an excessively supportive wine industry in the wake of this tragedy. And given the foundation that Dave and Deb have built, I know that Red Newt will continue to be a beacon to the Finger Lakes wine and culinary industries, even if its light is momentarily dimmed.

Anthony Ianni, @zinhead: Red Newt Cellars 2007 Glacier Ridge Vineyards Cabernet Franc

I first had this wine in August, 2010 while having dinner at Red Newt. Our waitperson was intimate with the wine and said based our conversation (about my palate) "You'll love it." We did and asked for two more to take with us. I couldn't keep my hands off one and drank it while sitting on the Seneca Lake shoreline. The other was opened July 4, 2011.

The wine was clear with a ruby core fading to a pink rim. A clean modestly pronounced and still youthful nose of raspberry, cherry and plum along with thyme, mocha slight tobacco and light smoke. The palate was dry with medium plus acidity, medium tannin and alcohol with medium plus body. The mocha note really carried through to the palate along with the red fruit/herbal component. Medium plus length which was very pleasant.

This was served with a variety of grilled meats including ribeye with a porcini rub and simple grilled chicken with herbs. The wine had no problem standing up to either.

To my taste this is exactly what I enjoy in red wine. Modest tannin balanced by an acidic backbone and not overpowered by excess alcohol. Perfect everytime. This wine was a spectacular effort.

Pete Slywka, Michael Skurnik Wines/Finger Lakes Wine Lover: Red Newt Cellars 2009 Riesling

I had my first proper introduction to the Red Newt wines on a solo trip back home to the Finger Lakes in July of 2009. I had set out blindly to see if my previous experience in wine would find me disappointed by what I would find back upstate. I happened upon Red Newt while looking over the regional winery map and had heard/read that it was worth the visit. Over a few days I was shown the great potential that existed around the Lakes.

Since that visit Red Newt has been part of every serious conversation I've had about the direction of the region. And, after reading Summer In A Glass it's hard not to feel the tremendous loss that the Whiting family has encountered.

Having been born on Cayuga Lake and finding my way into the world of wine it seems only fitting to savour a classic from the family. I've certainly had them in my thoughts.

This wine smells of home and perky youth. Initial green apple and peachy notes via the Mosel but rounded by something more tropical. A bit of orange and lemon zest and minerality with striking acidity that makes you want another sip. Beautiful finish with an integrity of sweetness usually reserved for the German Kabinetts. A riesling that should be held up as a model for balance in the United States. This 2009 is rockin'!

Jeff Houck, Lucas Vineyards: Red Newt Cellars 2009 Sawmill Creek Vineyard Riesling

Explosive floral nose with juicy peach and pear fruits. To borrow a note from Dave Whiting, this wine has a large yummy factor. This wine kept me wanting more.

Tasting it made me smile, something I appreciated this weekend.

Aaron Estes, NYCR Cheese Editor: Red Newt Cellars 2007 Curry Creek Vineyards Gewurztraminer

The news from the Finger Lakes this past weekend made my heart heavy as I celebrated with friends and family.

I met Dave and Deb a couple of years ago when visiting the area  for a long weekend with Lenn and Nena. I was taken by the passion that both expressed for the region through food and wine. Having lunch at the Bistro while Dave poured his wines for us was definitely one of the highlights of our trip.

This Gewurztraminer from the Curry Creek Vineyards surprises me every time I have an opportunity to taste it. Most people know that I am typically not a fan of this grape. I usually associate gewurtz with drinking grandma's perfume after it has been steeped with potpourri for several houris.

It is because of this association that I would generally steer clear. This particular wine was a revelation for me when I first tasted it. I love the lychee and pear notes coupled with the ginger spiciness on the finish.  

I couldn't believe that this was the same wine that had haunted me so many times before. It is because of this wine, and the care that is obviously taken with it, that I will continue to taste and drink gewurtz at every opportunity.

In my mind, this wine epitomizes the elegant characteristics of this grape and a perfect expression in the glass.

Kelby Russell, Fox Run Vineyards: Red Newt Cellars 2009 Davis Vineyards Riesling

Being away from home, let alone nearly the antipode of home, makes us all reach out for a reminder of where we come from. As a young winemaker traveling to learn from and share with other regions, however, there is also a degree of one-upmanship involved when pulling out a bottle of wine from home. I don't want to just be reminded of home, I want everyone else I share the bottle with to be jealous that their home is anywhere else.

Such was the case a few weeks after my arrival in Tasmania to work their harvest earlier this year, when I pulled out a special bottle from home to share with everyone I was working with. Having tasted it before I departed when I was selecting the best of the best from the Finger Lakes, I had no doubt how Red Newt's 2009 Davis Vineyards Riesling would provide the "wow" factor I desired. After dozens of pleasant enough Tasmanian rieslings, I wanted a wine that would remind me of where I came from.

Given how young the wine was (and how low the pHs were for 2009 Finger Lakes rieslings in general), it was no surprise that the wine needed a few minutes to breath and blow off some remaining SO2.

Shortly thereafter, the room was filled with the aroma of peach, ripe mango, and a flash of lime zest. Most surprisingly to my companions was the midpalate, however, as it beguiled them with gorgeous blood orange and honeysuckle aromas before finishing with a lightening crack of acidity. It was that crack of acidity that I had desperately missed (without knowing it) in every wine I had tried since departing.

Within five seconds I was not only reminded of where I had come from, but why I was looking forward to coming back. Not just for the gorgeous wines, like so many that Red Newt releases year after year, but especially for the Finger Lakes family that makes those wines possible. 

For all the comfort and pride Red Newt's 2009 Davis Vineyards Riesling brought me, I plan on returning the favor ten times over for Dave and the Red Newt family.

Kevin Welch, Grape Management: Red Newt Cellars 2009 Sawmill Creek Vineyards Riesling

This past December during the week between Christmas and New Years I had my very first opportunity to visit Red Newt Cellars, a winery I had often enjoyed when attending the Finger Lakes Wine Festival.

I planned my tour of Southeast Seneca so I would arrive around lunch time in order to finally try firsthand the culinary samplings served up by resident chef Deb Whiting, whom I had repeatedly heard praises.

Although the Bistro wasn’t open due to my timing, Red Newt did offer a scaled down, but still very smart, café menu offered in a segregated section of the tasting room. Our lunch of course was fantastic and met every expectation, and at the conclusion I was lucky enough to personally thank Chef Deb Whiting. Although lunch was short, and my conversation with the chef brief, the experience offered an instant insight into the culinary success the Finger Lakes region is achieving, straight from its pioneer.

In remembrance of Chef Deb Whiting’s passing and the memorial service that was being held last night at Red Newt I found it fitting to open a bottle of 2009 Red Newt Cellars Riesling Sawmill Creek Vineyards. This current vintage has both citrus and light herbal notes on the nose.

At first sip lime takes center stage but is then accompanied with green apple. This semi-dry has no problem successfully balancing its residual sweetness with a strong acidic backbone. This wine will clearly get better with age.

Michael Gorton Jr, Undertaking Wine: Red Newt Cellars 2009 Saw Mill Creek Vineyard Riesling

It is hard for me to comprehend what the Red Newt Winery Family is going through with the sudden and tragic loss of Deb Whiting, wife, mother, chef and friend to many.

Dave, Ryan and Brenton are devastated I am sure. The entire Finger Lakes wine community is consumed in greif by her loss. It reverberates down here on Long Island as well, whether you met her or not, tonight, on July 5, 2011 as family and friends gathered at Red Newt Winery and Bistro in Hector, NY to celebrate Deb’s life, there were people that could not be there in person, like myself. 

When Lenn offered others an opportunity to celebrate her life by tasting Red Newt’s wine and write some notes, I thought it was a great way to honor Deb and to those that never met her, or met her only once or knew her personally. In some small way, it helps us all to work through our feelings and pay tribute to a person who meant so much to everyone.

I was lucky enough to have one bottle of Red Newt -- a bottle of Red Newt Cellars 2009 Saw Mill Creek Vineyard Riesling. On the nose I was picking up some juicy lime and peach notes with hints of flowers and dried apple. There was a Asian tea-like aroma that developed over time in the glass with more of the floral notes taking center stage. 

When I tasted this wine the lime and citrus notes jumped on my palate with hints of river rock minerality, peach and a lightning bolt of electric acid.  Well balanced and delicious, it kept me wanting to take another sip. An enticing finish of apple, pear and a squirt of lime carried for a while.

Thank you Lenn for giving us this opportunity to celebrate Deb’s life and the fruit of the labor that David and the Red Newt team produce. Deb has left a legacy that will not be matched. The region will struggle to pull itself back together, but it will. Rest in peace Deb. And when I am up in Hector again, looking over the deck of the winery as I look at the lake at sunset, I know you will be there.

Mary Jane and Seth Kircher, The Copper Oven: Red Newt Cellars 2007 Gewürztraminer Sawmill Creek Vineyard

Following countless others, we turned onto Tichenor Road in Hector tonight at about 6:15 pm. Upon our arrival at Red Newt Cellars – just up the hill - the line to enter the tasting room was long enough to afford us a 25-minute wait.

Not surprisingly, no one minded.

Some in their Sunday’s best, others dressed for a summer day, the crowd that greeted us inside was not a cross section of the region’s food, wine and tourism enterprise but seemingly the whole of the industry in one room. Said another way, the friends and family gathered tonight was a true testament to Deb and Dave Whiting’s vision, hard work and enthusiasm for the Finger Lakes and its potential.

For this, we raise our glass to you.

Julia Burke, NYCR Beer Editor: Red Newt Cellars 2008 Circle Riesling

Since its release, this amazing riesling has been a part of my life on so many occasions that I can't think of Finger Lakes wine without it crossing my mind.

Red Newt 08 Circle impressed me on first sip with its beautiful balance. The gorgeous tropical fruit that's textbook Finger Lakes, the tightrope of acidity, that suggestion of sweetness that lingers long enough on the mid-palate to demand near-constant sipping, and the beautiful length of the wine all make it, to me, the very best way to bring the Finger Lakes to groups of friends and family at $12 a bottle.

I've enjoyed this wine standing around my best friends' kitchens cooking and talking, on my parents' patio in the middle of the summer, with roast turkey at Thanksgiving and with cheese and crackers on a weeknight.

It's my absolute epitome of what a good wine should be, and the fact that I'll think of Deb Whiting from now on when I enjoy it makes it all the more special to me.

Dan Mitchell, Fox Run Vineyards: Community

What am I drinking? Community.

I spend a good part of my week traveling around New England encouraging people to "Buy Local," a movement that has spread across the country but was pioneered in the Finger Lakes by Deb Whiting.

So today I pulled a bottle of Red Newt 2007 Sawmill Creek Cabernet Franc that I had been stashing away and set out to enjoy my lunch. Egg salad pitas with fresh greens and arugula from my girlfriend's backyard garden would do the trick nicely.

As I enjoyed the silky tannin and beautiful dark cherry character of this wine, not to mention the subtle licorice to the nose, I was reminded of why I am involved in the wine industry in the Finger Lakes in the first place. Community.

I have worn several hats over the years, and have had opportunity to work in much larger communities with much larger payrolls and much flashier lifestyles. However, they lacked the family-like bonds that hold Finger Lakes wineries together.

These past several days have been difficult not only for those who knew Deb so well but for those who know the Red Newt family, who have seen Dave's infectious smile, and those who make Red Newt wines a part of their weekly meals.

A member of our family is hurting, and that grieves us all. People often come in to or tasting rooms and ask how the wine is at our "competition". They have no idea how far from the truth that is. This delicious bottle of cab franc is why I work in the Finger Lakes, but the flavors in the glass are secondary. 

Jeff Bailey and Jerol Rickard, Lenz Winery: Red Newt Cellars 2007 Sawmill Creek Vineyards Gewurztraminer

Jerol and I were first introduced to the Whiting family and Newt Cellars in mid May of 2011.

Eric Fry, winemaker of Lenz Winery, helped us select wines for our monthly wine tasting group. It was our turn to host the group and this time, we selected notable dry Gewürztraminers.

After the group assembled and tasted all fourteen wines blindly, it was clear that there were some beautiful wines in the mix. Both 2007 Red Newt Cellars’ Gewürztraminers were scored highly.

The Sawmill Creek Vineyards selection displayed crisp acidity, notes of bee pollen and aromas of orange peel and lychee.

Last night, Jerol and I once again enjoyed the 2007 Red Newt, Sawmill Creek Gewürztraminer with our dinner. Grilled yogurt, ginger and chili-marinated chicken thighs with grilled local vegetables paired perfectly. It is not by coincidence that the Whiting family’s wines have been consistently accompanied by memorable nights with great friends and family.

 

http://www.hazlitt1852.com/

What We Drank (June 28, 2011)

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

Here's a sampling of what our editors and contributors are drinking:

David Flaherty: De la Senne Wadesda #1 (a series of barrel experiments)
In the slightly sketchy outskirts of Brussels, Yvan de Baets and Bernard Leboucq have finally opened their brewery. With the space and rent required for one to realize this dream, you'll often find urban breweries in neighborhoods you don't want to let mom wander around in at night. 

Inside, however, pure gold is happening. Riding a wave of beer geek love (they've been brewing at friend's breweries for years and honing their craft), they are one of the hottest micro-breweries in Belgium. And they deserve it; they brew in the long, traditional way with utmost respect for the brewer's art while many around them look for shortcuts and marketing gimmicks.

Starting with their Jambe-de-Bois (an Abbey trippel), they blend it with 3-year old Lambic from Cantillon and age it in a barrel at Cantillon for one year. 

The result? One of the strangest, most complex beers I've tried. 

The Wadesda is slightly dark with a golden lemon color. Pouring with a massive, seemingly alive foamy head, it gives off ever-changing notes of tangerines, apple cider and horse blanket.  Dry, champagne-like with huge acidity, it is sharp and grabs your tongue.  A rich roundness from the malt balances with the Lambic beautifully and it leaves your mouth watering like a fiend.  I look forward to experiment #2.

 

Evan Dawson: Goose Watch Winery Cabernet Franc Ice Wine and Swedish Hill Winery Riesling Cuvee
This is the time of year for creative summer offerings, and give credit to the folks at Suzanne Fine Regional Cuisine for a nice one.

The Finger Lakes has a dilemma with cabernet franc ice wine -- namely, what to do with it? More producers are cranking it out (and most of it isn't very good), but Suzanne has done something quite clever.

The restaurant takes a small pour of cab franc ice wine from Goosewatch and fills the rest of the glass with Swedish Hill Riesling Cuvee. Too much cab france ice would overpower the sparkler, but a judicious amount adds a brightening touch of sweetness. Finished with a plump raspberry, it makes for an attractive visual. And on an 82-degree summer day, it's a delightful opener to a long, relaxing meal at one of the very finest restaurants anywhere.

No, this pairing isn't designed for point scores or contemplation. But not all wine is in that category, and this time of year, we applaud the creative and thirst-quenching.

 

Lenn Thompson: Kistler Vineyards 2009 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

It's rare that my wife Nena and I get a night out. It's even more rare that when get one alone with other adults. It's dodo-bird rare that we get a night out alone, with adults, who also happen to love wine as much as we do.

The stars aligned and we found ourselves at just such a dinner Saturday night.

We started our meal with Hermann J. Wiemer 2009 Dry Riesling Reserve, a beautiful wine with the kind of acidity/tension/verve that I love with food, and expect from top Finger Lakes riesling. And as you may have guessed, I ordered it.

Our friends ordered this pinot noir and we enjoyed it quite a bit. Decidedly not Burgundian (and why should it be?) the nose was filled with dark fruits -- plum, black cherry and blackberr -- with nice brown spice notes and something a bit floral. Ripe and medium-full bodied, the palate showed light, silky tannins and good acidity to keep things taut.

Seems like this could -- and maybe should -- sit in the cellar for another 5-10 years.

What We Drank (June 13, 2011)

Here's a sampling of what our editors and contributors are drinking:

  David Flaherty: Paulinshof Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett Trocken 2010

I am finally seeing the Mosel Valley firsthand. Like a kid who has looked at magazines of Disneyland for years and finally enters the gate, I have crossed the threshold from fantasy to reality. 

And reality does not disappoint.

I am an acid hound, and can never have too many rieslings skate across my palate. The steep vineyards abutting the Mosel River are made of slate, and tons of it. The resulting wines are high-acid, mineral-driven, time bombs of fruit and sheer, taut power. 

They are not for the faint of heart.  Proceed with caution.

This wine swept me off my feet today. An explosion of flavor and sensation, it has a stunning concentration. I wanted to cry a tear of joy but all body defenses were dealing with the roller coaster ride of slate and minerals spinning like a top on the tart lemon backdrop.

This is cotton candy, funnel cakes and a hot dog rolled into one before a ride on Space Mountain.

I'm on the move, please forgive my typos.

 

Aaron Estes: Mikkeller Cluster Single Hop IPA

Any opportunity I have to go into the city, I usually make some sort of an excuse to go to one of the various beer bars around the city, and see if they happen to have anything interesting on tap.  

This past weekend, it was my job to keep a friend out of the house while his wife decorated their apartment to look like a beer garden in preparation for his surprise birthday party.  To keep within the theme of the day, I decided to take him to The Blind Tiger, have a couple of pints, and get out of the pouring rain that was making its way through the city.  All I can say is that they must have known we were coming.

I am definitely a self-proclaimed Hop-Head.  I love IPA's.  Any time I see one I haven't tried, I can't help myself.  So imagine my surprise when we walked into the bar to the aftermath of a Mikkeller (Danish Brewery) Single Hop event where there were 19 Single Hop IPA's.  That's right...19...

After reading through the list, and tasting through a few of them, my favorite was made with "Cluster" Hops.  Taken from their tasting notes, Clusters are the oldest Hops grown in the United States.  Up until the 1970's, it was one of the few American Hops available.

I didn't know if I would like it at first given the floral tones on the nose, but the orange and citrus balanced with the bittering on the finish won me over big time.  Very interesting, and very different.  Too many varieties to try in one day, but of the few I did try, Cluster was definitely the standout for me.

 

Evan Dawson: Cantina Santadi 2005 Shardana, Sardinia

This wine is like the upstate New York weather. Don't like it? Wait five minutes. It'll change.

When's the last time you had a wine that was almost entirely carignan from Sardinia? Or a wine from Sardinia at all?

That was interesting enough. More significantly, this is one of the better big reds I've had in the past year.

Truly complex and showing no oak, it's rich but not fat, darkly fruited and yet bright, with an undertone that evokes fresh blacktop covered in lavender. What a fun wine.

We were simply in the mood for a steak and a big red, even on a warm night, and I'm glad we went there.

This one ain't easy to find, but we'll look for more.

 

Lenn Thompson: Two North Fork 2005 Cabernet Francs

My in-laws like wine. They drink it regularly, but they aren't what anyone would consider wine geeks. But they are intrepidly curious and always willing to try just about anything I'll pour for them.

And for me, it's fun to teach them a bit about wine here and there when the opportunity arises.

Saturday we dodged the raindrops and visited a couple North Fork wineries as a family and got to taste something fun from the library at Peconic Bay Winery -- a 2005 cabernet franc. It was soft and silky with mature loamy earth and spice flavors -- actually a bit more mature than I would have expected, but certainly a treat and it sparked a conversation about what 'typically' happens to wines as they age.

When we got home and started to prepare a dinner of flank steak with garlic scape pesto and braised greens with white beans (we had picked up our first CSA share earlier), I decided to open another 2005 cab franc, this time from Pellegrini Vineyards, to see how it would compare.

Tasting a bit more youthful, the fruit was more primary and there was much more structure and tannin with a dose of spicy oak to stood out on the finish.

I'd be curious to hear about your experiences with 5-10 year old cab franc.

 

Bryan Calandrelli: Mountfair Vineyards 2007 Composition

There aren't many opportunities where I get to try Virginia wines. Even though I've heard great things about their cabernet franc, red blends and viognier, I can count on one hand the examples I've tasted.

Needless to say I was stoked to find this Mountfair Vineyards 2007 Composition at a picnic the other day.

This Monticello-grown blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and petit verdot stood out with its sophisticated cherry, plum fruit and spice aromas. Ripe without being over-extracted, with fine tannins and a good backbone, this blend reminded me of well-made Long Island red blends.

Apparently this producer specializes in Bordeaux blends and it shows in the complexity of this bottle. If I make it to Monticello wine country, they will be on the top of my must visit list.

 

What We Drank (June 8, 2011)

This week's sampling of what our editors and contributors have been drinking...

Lenn Thompson: Sixpoint Craft Ales Bengali Tiger IPA
Because my wife isn't drinking at the moment (we are expecting our second child in December) I seem to be drinking more beer than wine -- especially at restaurants.  Lucky for me, most of the restaurants we frequent have at least one craft beer that I'm interested in drinking. Some have several.

And now that Sixpoint Craft Ales is finally putting four of their most popular beers in "nanokegs" -- really 16 oz. cans -- restaurants without (or with limited) tap setups can now have their beer on hand. And so can I, because they are available in 4-packs at a handful of local beer shops.

Over the weekend, I had three of the four beers, starting with this Bengali Tiger IPA at Luce & Hawkins in Jamesport. I've had this beer on tap and from a growler several times and the in-can version stacks up well. Pine-y and grapefruit-y with nice bitterness and just enough maltiness to balance without weighing it down, this is the kind of IPA you can drink all day.

The next day, I picked up a four-pack of Sweet Action, a cream ale that is absolutely killer on draught. The tap-to-can leap didn't go quite as well with the finish being a bit bitter (but not in a hoppy way).

To cap off my weekend Sixpoint-in-a-can-athon, our cheese editor Aaron Estes brought over some of The Crisp, a pilsner. Pils isn't my go-to style by any means, but this one is a standout with crisp, grain-meets-citrus aromas and plenty of noble hops. It was great on a hot day.

 

Evan Dawson: Hippolyte Reverdy 2008 Sancerre
With the arrival of choking, stifling heat, it's sauvignon blanc season. My wife and I tore through our entire stash of Long Island sauvignon blanc last summer, and when we realized there was none left, it was still, like, July.

Ridiculous. We considered digging a tunnel directly to Channing Daughters' tasting room for just such an emergency.

We kicked off this summer with a sauv blanc from its historical home. It came as part of a mixed case from the outstanding Red Feet Wines in Ithaca.

Scrapingly dry, it's a chiseled Sancerre made for shellfish. There are stony, jagged edges here. Don't expect opulence or much weight, but then, that's not always the point.

Nice to have several more months of this season to ponder what's in the cellar.

 

Julia Burke: Niagara Brewing 2000 Eisbock
I tasted some fascinating wines, beers and spirits on my first venture into the Hudson Valley this weekend, and I'll be writing more about them shortly. But my mind was blown in a completely different way when, after a night of already-awesome drinking with Dave and Kathy Jackson and Carlo and Dominique DeVito, Carlo showed me around his cellar and my eye landed this baby.

An eleven-year-old eisbock. The style is an Old World one, in which beer is partially frozen to remove some of the water, concentrating the beer's flavors and alcohol for an intense and ageable brew.

This wasn't my first eisbock of the weekend -- more on that later -- but it was a rare opportunity to sample one that had been properly stored at length. And imagine my awe when I discovered that it was from Niagara, Ontario, from the erstwhile Niagara Brewing Company (now apparently Moosehead-owned) just 20 minutes from my home!

The beer was caramelized-brown and hazy and still sported a respectable half-finger tan head; far from tired, it looked, smelled and tasted fantastic. Incredible molasses, maple and candied aromas burst from the nose, with that gorgeous leathery malt scent that well-aged beers develop. The carbonation and hops were still well in balance, lending vibrance to cut the sweet, syrupy palate. An incredibly long finish brought more brown sugar, clementine peel, and clean, crisp hops.

Drinking perfectly right now and a tribute to the style, this was an awesome beer experience.

 

Bryan Calandrelli: Vineland Estates Winery Pinot Meunier 2009
A few months ago I ran into an employee from Vineland Estates in Ontario that was picking up a bottle of pinot meunier sent to him from Duck Walk Vineyards on the South Fork of Long Island.

Thinking that it was a rather unusual purchase I asked what prompted his interest.

Turns out it was merely research on how that grape has done in North America, and ultimately it would be compared to their first bottling of the grape which just happened to show up at a gathering I was at last weekend.

Delicate and fruity on the nose with some floral aromas, gamay-like red fruit and a touch of pinot noir-like earth, this supper supple red was ready for summer with soft tannins and pleasing acidity. It was delicate and feminine in nature yet the kind of red anyone can appreciate, especially outdoors with some good eats.

I found out afterwards that it¹s already sold out at the winery so I was lucky to try it when I did. Niagara is home to many varieties that can thrive here and it looks like now we can add pinot meunier to the list.

What We Drank (May 20, 2011)

For this week's WWD, our contributors and editors all picked a wine from TasteCamp 2011 -- and not surprisingly we each focused on something different:

Lenn Thompson: Ravine Vineyard 2007 Reserve Merlot

The first day of TasteCamp 2011 was spent in and tasting wines from Niagara-on-the-Lake, an area with a distinct focus on Bordeaux varieties.

Coming from another Bordeaux-heavy region, it was interesting to note the differences and the similarities.

I found quite a bit of oak in the NOTL merlots, cab francs and cab sauvs, but also a lot of intense, ripe fruit and some heat on the finish on a few. Some were absolute Parker Pleasers, which doesn't necessarily align with my own palate. (I was much more interested in the "Bench" wineries we tasted on Saturday, but more on that soon.)

We tasted my favorite of the lot Friday evening at Ravine Vineyard. The Ravine Vineyard 2007 Reserve Merlot showed plenty of ripeness in the form of sweet red cherry and faint currant and spicy cocoa notes, but far less and better-integrated oak.

More medium-bodied and food-friendly than most of the merlot we tasted, the tannins here are grippy but without rough edges and subtle acidity brings a freshness.

Another interesting point that this wine illustrated for me -- Long Island isn't the only emergent region that is unapologetic about wine pricing. This wine sells for $55 in the tasting room, making it more expensive than all but a handful of Long Island merlots.

Evan Dawson: Tawse 2008 Quarry Road Chardonnay

The biggest disappointment at TasteCamp North for me was the chardonnay. Niagara is pumped about its chardonnay, which seems silly, given that most of it is hidden in oak. The vast majority was buttery, smelled of popcorn, and offered nothing particularly new or interesting.

The exception -- and what an exception it was -- came in the wines at Tawse Winery. Winemaker Paul Pender allowed us to taste several chardonnays side-by-side; he lets the individual vineyards stand alone, which is a good idea given their differences. While I preferred Pender's unoaked chardonnay, I couldn't help but appreciate and enjoy his oaked versions, too. They're taut, textured, expressive and -- here it is! -- integrated.

Pender's chardonnays set a high standard that the rest of the region is not currently matching, it seems.

The challenge is finding Tawse wines in the states. But if you visit, this is a must-see. Quality across the board.

Photo courtesy of Jeff Pinhey.

Julia Burke: Mike Weir 2009 and Peninsula Ridge 2010 Wismer Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc

When I say your wine tastes South African, it's one of the highest compliments I can pay. Not everyone is familiar enough with great South African wine (or with me) to get that, but the representatives of both Mike Weir and Peninsula Ridge seemed to dig the comparison.

We tasted some amazing wines that express many facets of Niagara terroir, and I'll be writing more about them. But WWD is for cool stuff, and the similarity of these two wineries' sauvignon blancs to my favorite SA examples was too cool to ignore. 

Mike Weir is not a winery I had visited before TasteCamp, but the 2009 sauvignon blanc rocked me with a nose of fresh, crisp poblano and jalapeno straight from the garden, flecked with fierce minerality -- a dead ringer for Buitenverwachting Hussey's Vlei, one of the top sauvignon blancs in South Africa (yes, the name's unpronounceable and funny. But the wine will stop you in your tracks). That a wine from Niagara could taste so much like a wine from the Constantia region of SA, which is one of the country's coolest regions and certainly the closest to Niagara in terroir, was amazing to me.

Peninsula Ridge was already on my radar before our Saturday bench wineries tasting, but not for sauvignon blanc. That has changed. Their clean, flinty, gooseberry-tastic 2010 Wismer Vineyard sauv was simply awesome and crazily similar to a Stellenbosch version of the grape. Once again the clean, razor-sharp flavor profile and absence of resin or funk made me feel like I was on a picnic blanket in SA.

Sauvignon blanc wasn't necessarily the variety I was most pumped about in Niagara before TasteCamp, but it's officially on my must-try list now for future visits across the border. We have one grower on the USA side finding success with the grape and it will be interesting to see how sauv develops here. For now, it's great to know that I can get this level of sauvignon blanc from Niagara Peninsula producers.

 

Bryan Calandrelli:Peninsula Ridge 2009 McNally Vineyards Pinot Noir

What's amazing about an event like Tastecamp is that we all bring our collective preconceived ideas into the weekend, which ultimately sets us up for surprise or disappointment.

My expectations of Niagara pinot noir have been established by producers like Le Clos Jordanne, Tawse, Coyotes Run, Laily and a few others so when I sampled the first attempt from Peninsula Ridge I was excited enough to start rounding up people to taste it before they left.

I'd previously associated Peninsula Ridge with spectacular single vineyard Sauvignon Blancs, tasty Viognier and a handful of solid reds, but this McNally Vineyard Proprietors Reserve Pinot Noir 2009 was news to me and it sets the bar even higher for the winery.

Aromas of crushed red fruits and spice revealed the ready to drink attitude that I didn't pick up in many of the other 2009 pinot noirs I tasted over the weekend.  It still showed a bit of that Niagara pinot funk that I dig but it wasn't front and center as this was clearly fruit driven. A fleshy palate with soft tannins and a graceful balance of acid really made this one stand out.

Not to mention it's listed at $25 at the winery. Next time I cross the border I'm heading straight to this winery and making my way back east with some Niagara pinot noir.

Photo Credit to Zoltan Szabo.

What We Drank (May 4, 2011)

This is a (small) sampling of what our editors were drinking last week...

Lenn Thompson: Bedell Cellars 2002 Merlot

This mature local merlot -- from a surprisingly under-hyped vintage -- showed very well at my birthday dinner last Friday at Fifth Season in Port Jefferson (a restaurant that use to be in local wine country but moved to the tourist town a few years ago).

There was still nice fruit intensity, but the mushroomy, dusty chocolate and faintly herbal secondary characters -- and enough structure to maybe age another few years -- were the real stars with my waygu burger with bacon and cheddar.

Even if only one of my dining companions drank it with me, it was a great way to celebrate... especially because of Fifth Season's BYO policy -- if it's a local wine, the corkage fee is waived.

I actually just heard about this policy recently and I'm glad I did. We'll be back, with more local wine in tow.

As for the wine itself, they are actually selling it right now in the Bedell tasting room as a library selection.

 

Julia Burke: Arrowhead Spring Vineyards 2009 Chardonnay

This weekend I celebrated the end of my alcohol detox with a day of winery visits in Niagara.

Though I enjoyed several great local wines (and meads), the highlight was Arrowhead Spring's new 2009 chardonnay. For a winemaker who seems to be the "chard whisperer" to declare this one, from a supposedly tough vintage, the best he's ever made is no joke, and I had to agree as I sipped this luscious wine.

The nose is quite restrained with barely a whisper of oak; instead, it's fierce citrus with just a hint of creaminess on the background, like a meringue cake topped with orange and lemon zest.

But on the palate, the velvety-smoothness kicks in full throttle for a gorgeous combination of clean fruit, whipped butter, and razor-sharp acid. First as an aperitif, then with vineyard manager Robin Ross's apple crisp for dessert, this was a tremendous wine and a great reminder of winemaker Duncan Ross's affinity for the variety.

What We Drank (April 7, 2011)

Here is a sampling of what our editors and contributors were drinking last week...

 

Evan Dawson: Ravines Wine Cellars 2007 Pinot Noir
I'm grateful for the early reviews of Summer in a Glass, and perhaps the most moving one yet comes from a NYC-based wine enthusiast and writer. It inspired me to open this bottle this weekend. That's because Keith Levenberg not only read the book, he followed up by tracking down some of the wines.

I've never met Keith, but I've been reading his stuff for a while. He is - and I've said this long before he reviewed my book - one of the four or five wine writers anywhere, online or in print. If it seems like hyperbolic praise, take some time to read his not-updated-nearly-enough site, Cellar-Book.

Keith is a Burgundy fanatic, and is extremely knowledgeable about Pinot. That made his comments on Finger Lakes Pinot (and specifically, Ravines Pinot Noir) carry a lot of weight. His review should be very encouraging to winemakers committed to making excellent Pinot.

This wine brings such a tremendous balance of savory notes, ripe fruit and spice that it's out of the pure Pinot playbook. Nice reminder of what's capable when grower and winemaker do the hard work together.

 

Julia Burke: Tanzanian Peaberry Coffee, or, "The Vegan Bullshit I've Been Drinking"
I decided at the end of March to give up alcohol and junk food for 30 days and dabble in a mainly-vegan diet. I did this for a variety of reasons, most notably that A) I'm training for a half-marathon and subsequent full marathon in the next few months and I need all the health points I can get, and B) I feared my liver might stage a walk-off protest in response to a month of nonstop drinking in South Africa and at my best friend's wedding, and my only sibling has informed me that she does NOT plan on giving me any part of her liver should I need a transplant.

That said, I spent the first five days of my "detox" caffeine-free as well and then realized that healthy living was threatening to kill me. I ran (faster and lighter than before!) to my local coffee merchant, Blue Mountain Coffees, and asked for the strongest beans they could sell me under $15 a pound. I went home with Tanzanian peaberry.

I can't really describe what a good cup of freshly ground, very strong African coffee tastes like after five days of no meat, dairy, eggs, sugar, wine, beer, liquor, or sake, so I've provided an amusing photo of a public service announcement in Tanzania taken by my buddy who is currently bicycling through the country. It says, "You can't always tell if he's infected, no matter how hard you look!"

I imagine my delight in sipping this awesome coffee matches his delight at finding this sign.

 

Lenn Thompson: Ingle Vineyard 2010 Seedless Concord Grape Juice
Early spring illness has kept the Thompsons from enjoying much wine the last week or so. The tasting table has been shut down for 9 days now.

For this week's WWD, we turn to the next generation of the NYCR -- our 4 year-old Jackson.

This juice, made from seedless concord grapes and an assortment of apples grown on Heron Hill Winery owner John Ingle's property on Canandaigua Lake. The apples, which make up 15% of the blend, include Empire, Cortland, Mac, Liberty, Red Delicious, Granny Smith and other heirloom varieties.

It sells for $5 per 750ml bottle in the tasting room.

Jackson is always developing his palate -- tasting just about everything in and coming out of your kitchen, but his tasting note vocabulary is still a work in progress.

"Mmmmm....it's deeeeLICIOUS" was the long and short of it, but I tend to agree. It's got all of that grapey concord deliciousness but the edges are softened by the apple cider. I think it'd make one heck of a reduction for over pork or chicken too.

 

What We Drank (March 23, 2011)

By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

Here is a sampling of what our editors and contributors have been drinking. As always, it's a diverse grouping this week:

Evan Dawson: Albino Rocca 1996 Barbaresco Vigneto Brich Ronchi
A friend asked what this wine revealed, considering the fact that it had some age on it. The best I could offer was that the wine is still primary, still youthful, and yet it's not closed or tight. At all.

It has opened like a flower and is generously displaying aromatics that could convert a Coke drinker.

We all like to talk about older wine as if our own experiences were enough to chart a perfect aging curve or track, but that's just speculation and a little BS, right? Each wine is different, and while relating experience and offering generalities is fine, we can't possibly predict the life of each wine.

That said, it seems to me that nebbiolo goes through phases. It shuts down not long after bottling, then opens up without losing primary characteristics, then undergoes a long, beautiful evolution into secondary and tertiary character.

I'd love to revisit this wine every five years. It's gorgeous and intellectually stimulating without being boastful. It has a sense of joy just when you start to take it too seriously.

If you've seen the movie Say Anything, this wine is Diane Court. That's a very good thing.

Lenn Thompson: Duca del Frassino 2010 Garganega Pinot Grigio
Sometimes, my biases just don't make a lot of logical sense.

On one hand, I'm cautiously enthusiastic about screwcap closures and kegged wines. On the other, I still -- still -- find myself continually looking down upon boxed wines. To the point that after trying a couple of the "good wine in a box" offerings a few years ago, I gave up on them completely. Yes, they are economical and "green" but if the wine is crap, who wants 3L of crap sitting around -- no matter how fresh it stays?

Enter this blend from Italy, sent as a press sample (full disclosure).

It's surprisingly, almost stunningly, drinkable... and even brings a bit of complexity to the glass. Mostly it's apple and lemony citrus, but there is a decidedly floral edge here too. White flowers, like the lillies of the valley that still grow at my parents' house.

Let it warm up a bit and some peach peeks through too.

Fresh and a bit tart on the finish, I'd drink it again -- especially at around $20 for the equivalent of four bottles. And it gets bonus points because, as one of our friends noted, happily that "And No one even knows how much you've had."

Julia Burke: Hair of the Dog Fred from the Wood Barleywine
I love a good barleywine. And this is a good barleywine.

After a morning of tastings helping out the Great Lakes Brewing News crew, we kicked back to watch Buffalo's Old First Ward St. Paddy's Parade, chow on corned beef and cabbage, and taste some serious beer.

Fred is a gorgeous deep bloody orange color with an overwhelming nose of raisin, citrus, sweet malts and smoky, sexy peat with just enough oak to pull it all together.

On the palate, the toasty, buttery oak notes marry with more sweet dried fruit character and full, big alcohol; it's a stunner on the palate an the finish doesn't disappoint with a kick of hops and long, long length that throws in little bursts of fruit and malt flavor every few seconds.

You don't have Fred -- Fred has you. I'm smitten.

What We Drank (March 8, 2011)

Here is a sampling of what our editors and contributors were drinking last week...

Lenn Thompson: Jacques Puffeney 2005 Savagnin Arbois

"Most of our customers don't like this."

That's what our waiter at Bar Boulud said as he poured me a sip after I ordered a glass this Jura white. We had already established that we were wine lovers, so he meant it more as a badge of honor for me than any sort of warning.

He clearly didn't need to warn me -- it was a revelation.

Clearly oxidized with a streak of acetone that took me back to organic chemistry lab in college, there were layers of salted nuts and lemon zest and a burst of acidity and subtle walnut skin tannins on palate that is reminiscent of Fino Sherry.

And this was only one of the incredibly interesting wines we had that night. I also tasted my first Jura red (Stefphane Tissot 2009 Poulsard), my first Austrian dessert wine (a chardonnay that I forgot to take a picture of) and a glass of La Crau de Ma Mere 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape from Jeraboam -- part of the restaurants well-known big bottle by the glass program.

It's clear that Michael Madrigale, chief sommelier, is targeting wine geeks. I mean, who has three Jura wines available by the glass? That's insane. And I thank him for his insanity.

 

Evan Dawson: Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard 2003 Johannisberg Riesling

In a very basic sense, wine can be grouped into three categories. The first includes wines that should be drunk now, young, before they inevitably fade. The second includes wines that can be enjoyed at a young age but have the structure to hold their character with grace for a reasonable period of time.

That brings us to the third and very rare category of wines that actually improve with age. Sometimes they're unapproachable when young (traditional Nebbiolo, for example) and sometimes they're enjoyable soon after bottling. But a little time in the bottle brings even more interesting character, more complexity.

This is a very subjective category, of course. But I'll go ahead and include this wine, the Wiemer '03 Dry, which was positively enthralling when we drank it this past weekend. Why is it better with age? Try to imagine a Riesling that maintains its same youthful freshness -- almost no hint of even the early stages of oxidation -- while adding weight and texture in the mouth. Lively but rich, but not heavy. This is starting to sound like one giant contradiction, which is what many great wines seem to be.

We have one more bottle. It seems almost perfect now. We're eager to try it again. But when?

 

David Flaherty; Heartland Brewery, Kelly's Quad Bock

Most places give you a watch when you reach your 10th anniversary with a company (or if you're lucky, a lucite paperweight with your name on it and a cheap pen sticking out the top).  In Brewmaster Kelly Taylor's case, they let him brew a beer.  And they let him go big. And I mean big.

Normally known for lower alcohol, session beers that cover a wide-range of styles, Kelly -- who also brews for his own label, Kelso, and contract brews for clients -- went for something special.  A "quad bock" -- yeah, I know, it doesn't exist. 

Until now. 10 malts, 10 hops and 10% alcohol.

I was fortunate to have it straight out of the tap last night at the brewery with the man, himself. 

Roasted caramel notes with a dark fruit core and a velvety mouthfeel. It was complex and smooth, layered in depth and flavor; a perfect way to encapsulate ten years of hard work in front of the steaming brew kettle. 

I'll take one of these over a damn paperweight, any day. Congrats, sir.

(Photo credit: Chris Lehault of IDrunkThat.com)

What We Drank (March 2, 2011)

Here is a sampling of what our editors and contributors have been drinking.

Evan Dawson: Local store's recommendation -- Ravines 2007 Meritage

I had a very strange experience at a local wine store this past Saturday.

I picked up a bottle of the Ravines 2007 Meritage at the urging of the gentleman behind the counter in Wine Sense in Rochester. (The store has assumed new ownership; the previous owner was a steadfast supporter of New York wines.)

The man told me, "That's the number one Finger Lakes red wine," referencing the NYCR Wines of the Year results. I did not tell him I write for NYCR. I simply nodded and smiled, but then my smile vanished at his next sentence.

"That wine is so good that it doesn't taste like a New York wine. That's a good thing!"

Needless to say, I left the store with a rather sour taste in my mouth.

 

David Flaherty: Saison Cazeau

Saison is bar-none one of my favorite beer styles. A "farmhouse" ale, it was traditionally brewed in the spring months and cracked open during the summer, as it was just too damn hot out to get the fermenter going without fear of bacterial beasties taking over. This was pre-refrigeration, mind you, which, upon its discovery, changed the entire course of beer and winemaking forever. 

Now we can brew in August! Yippee! Fire up the fermenter, boys! 

I've noticed a lot of breweries now adopting this style -- after it nearly fell to the wayside in obscurity -- because it allows one a nice palate on which to put your brewing mark. The style commonly has a moderate bitterness, a bit of spiciness from the yeast and an earthy, citrus character.  Adding of herbs to a Saison is common -- or in my case, we spiced up our home-brewed one with green chiles.

 

In this case, the Saison Cazeau adds local Elderflowers. It had a nice, frothy head that lasted nearly all the way to the bottom of the glass and a creamy mouthfeel that was reminiscent of grassy, lemon curd (yep, try making that for your dinner party). 

Very floral and citric on the nose with a bit of metallic bitterness from the flowers. Quite interesting.

I think it would be best enjoyed in the Belgian countryside while wooing your man or woman with some fresh wildflowers and a full glass

 

Lenn Thompson: Domaine Jean Garaudet 2005 Monthelie

Over the past month or so, I've been lucky enough to taste several delicious Burgundy and Beaujolais wines, but none stood out more than this one, which was opened by a friend after we had finished tasting a wide array of hard ciders.

Explosively aromatic, the nose -- which featured myriad red fruits, cola, spice and a distinct savory meatiness -- grabbed me from across the room. It's one of those wines that you could sit and smell for five hours or more.

Of course why torture one's self?

On the palate it's just as beautiful. Medium weight and I imagine extremely food friendly, it blends red berries with earth and exotic spice and more of that intriguing savory quality. Not super-long, but balanced and a real beauty.

Burgundy has long been a near-mystery for me. Luckily, I've got some friends who know it far better -- and who are beyond generous with their treasures.

 

 

What We Drank (February 15, 2011)

This is what our editors and contributors were drinking last week...

Evan Dawson: Barboursville Vineyards 2002 Cabernet Franc Reserve (Virginia)

On a blind wine evening that included Barolo, white Rioja, Chablis, Cahors and Bordeaux, this wine snuck in and left a significant impression.

Still youthful and structured at 8+ years old, it was a very pleasant surprise.

Tasted blind, we hung on this one for a while. I settled timidly on cabernet franc and, pressed to identify a region, I said Long Island. That's a compliment.

I expect that 2011 will be the year when I learn much more about Virginia wines. I don't know anything about this producer; I don't whether it's considered among the finer wineries. But there's no doubt that Virginia can make good cab franc.

It's time to discover more of it.

 

Julia Burke: Umeno Yado Junmai Daiginjyo Sake

My coworker is a sake aficionado, and on Sunday he decided it was time for my own sake initiation at Buffalo's best sushi bar, Kuni's.

As we pored over the list, a couple of guys next to us announced they were treating the bar to one of the higher-end sakes on the list. We tried two other sakes as well that evening and I enjoyed them all, but this one was particularly smooth and an appealing introduction to this fascinating libation.

It tasted like cantaloupe and Rice Krispies. My coworker informed me that these two descriptors were textbook sake flavors; cantaloupe in particular, he explained, is "to sake what 'sour cherry' is to Tuscan wine."

The smoothness of the fruit, however, was really enjoyable, and I found myself digging it immediately. There was nothing stale or cardboardy about the rice aspect, either, just a very elegant sipper and great with octopus pieces.

I'm always up for cool new drinking experiences and this one was serendipitous.

 

Bryan Calandrelli: Shinn Estate Vineyards 2007 Wild Boar Doe (North Fork of Long Island)

I knew exactly what I was getting to when I uncorked this 2007 Shinn Wild Boar Doe. My palate was thirsty for a big New York red and this bottle didn't let me down.

Full and fleshy, this wine has new world ripeness with old world complexity. Rich tannins compliment its flavors of dark cherry, chocolate, earth and spice and the glass coating 14.6% alcohol is in complete balance.

Tasted blind, my sommelier friend thought it was Bordeaux. Great stuff from one of my favorite New York wineries.

Barboursville 2002 Cabernet Franc Reserve, Virginia

On a blind wine evening that included Barolo, white Rioja, Chablis, Cahors, and Bordeaux, this wine snuck in and left a significant impression. Still youthful and structured at 8+ years old, it was a very pleasant surprise.

Tasted blind, we hung on this one for a while. I settled timidly on Cabernet Franc and, pressed to identify a region, I said Long Island. That's a compliment. 

I expect that 2011 will be the year when I learn much more about Virginia wines. I don't know anything about this producer; I don't whether it's considered among the finer wineries. But there's no doubt that Virginia can make good cab franc. It's time to discover more of it.

What We Drank (February 8, 2011)

This is what our editors and contributors have been drinking...

Lenn Thompson: Blind Bat Brewery Hellsmoke Porter

Super Bowl Sunday is always big in our house, but when the Steelers are playing, it's becomes nothing short of a sacred holiday. After waking up and pacing most of the morning, I decided to keep myself busy by staying in the kitchen preparing some Pittsburgh favorites both new and old -- Roethlisburgers and from-scratch pierogies.

Of course the game didn't work out the way the Thompson household would have preferred, but at least the food was good.

During the game, I always drink Pennsylvania-brewed beers, but I sipped on this Long Island nano-brewed porter in the early afternoon as I rolled out pierogie dough and mixed ground beef and hot Italian sausage for the burgers.

And it was a damn fine first beer of the day before getting into some hop-bombs later.

Brewed 93 gallons at a time -- yes, this is a true nano-brew -- this is a well balanced, moderate-alcohol porter made with malted barley that brewer-owner Paul Dlugokencky smokes over alder and applewood, which brings distinct, but not overwhelming, campfire and sweet smoke notes layered with dark chocolate and French roast coffee.

Medium bodied with moderate carbonation, it's also mostly dry -- my preferred style of porter.

 

Evan Dawson: Mixing NY with wines from around the world

My wife and I hosted a small dinner party this past weekend, and we followed a plan that has come to work well with guests: We open a selection of quality New York wines along with some wines from other regions. It's a good way to spark conversation about New York winemaking without forcing the issue.

Here was the lineup: Lamoreaux Landing 2008 Dry Riesling (ideal with marinated shrimp and a few lighter cheeses); Fox Run 2001 Dry Riesling (starting to oxidize, it was rich and nutty and perfectly paired with sauteed mushrooms on toast points); a surprisingly rich and toasty Puligny-Montrachet; Lenz 2002 Merlot (in peak form and lovely with slow-cooked brisket); and Caprili 1997 Brunello di Montalcino (an unabashed old-world-style Brunello that is aging gracefully).

 

Each wine had its own personality, and the conversation flowed freely as we moved from bottle to bottle. It was rare to see so many wines show so well. The Lamoreaux and Lenz were wines of the night for me, with the Brunello also wonderful and the white Burgundly not quite as lithe as I had anticipated (only a minor quibble). The Fox Run Riesling is a mature dame, still capable of performing the waltz with a mellifluous tune to guide her. That's where the chopped and sauteed mushrooms came in.

We look forward to many more evenings like this.

 

David Flaherty: M. Sorrel 2007 Crozes-Hermitage

High up in the northern Rhone valley, far from the sunny climes and beaches of Provence, lies Crozes Hermitage. You will not find Leonardo DiCaprio sunning himself here. But you will find syrah. And lots of it.

Syrah is king in the northern Rhone where its vines are often staked to the earth to withstand the vicious whipping of the Mistral winds. It is here that M. Sorrel makes his wines.

Giving off classic aromas of white pepper on the nose, I also found a transfixing complexity of secondary notes like bitter chocolate, coffee grounds and violets.

On the palate, flavors of blueberries and dark fruit opened up from the earthier spice tones. A wash of cleansing acidity was followed by a subtle bite of tannin. Perhaps I've underestimated fair Leo. Maybe instead of gallivanting through the streets of Nice, he is at this very moment, climbing the rustic hillsides of Crozes Hermitage with a glass of syrah in hand.

 

Julia Burke: Spoetzl Brewery Shiner Bock

As always the Super Bowl was an all-beer event for me, and amidst the hoppier brews I enjoyed over the evening came this refreshingly light bock from Texas.

My coworker's wife had been singing its praises, and since she'd brought some from a recent trip to Ohio (it's not available in New York) I had to try it while whipping up some guacamole. 

Appropriately malty and sweet for the bock style, but with a crisp, light palate, this was a delightful pre-game beer. From its lovely dark amber color to its snappy finish, it was exactly what I want in a session beer and a dynamite match for the spicy chips and guac I was snacking on.

Shiner, Texas, "Cleanest Little City in Texas," population 2000, you've produced a fine beer which I intend to buy by the case next time I'm in the midwest. I salute you.

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What We Drank (January 21, 2011)

Last weekend, we tasted some great wines -- during the tasting and otherwise. Here is just a sampling of what we were drinking.

 

Bryan Calandrelli: Ramnista, Ktima Kir-Yianni – 2006

Last weekend was filled with amazing wine. From the current New York State releases to library selections that our hosts so generously opened for us, the number of memorable wines we tasted was epic.

Even in that lineup of eye opening New York wine, it’s a non-local wine that I will probably be seeking out sooner than later thanks to writer and Greek wine enthusiast, Markus Stolz.

Made from the indigenous Greek grape of Xynomavro, this Ramnista laid down and spooned the tannin lover in me.

Tasting blind I would have guessed it was a Nebbiolo blend and I wouldn’t have been close. This red fruit- and black pepper-forward wine was bright and fruity on the nose and relentlessly chalky and tannic on the palate. When I say tannic, I don’t mean clumsy or grainy tannins, I mean fine and dusty.

I can’t believe I hadn’t tried this grape before last weekend I foresee more in my glass in the near future.

 

Evan Dawson: Mercouri 2009 Kallisto (Greece)

The easiest mistake I could make would be to bestow some insulting title on this Greek white, which is a blend of Assyrtiko and Robola.

The Greek riesling? See, that's reductive and silly.

No, this is simply an excellent wine. I have nowhere near enough experience with Assyrtiko to declare whether this is classic and traditional, and this is the first Robola blend I've tasted.

Clean and cutting, this wine saw no oak (those Greeks are on to something...) and presents itself with a panoply of interesting flavors that fit no predetermined box or matrix. Lime? Sure, that works. Grapeseed oil? Perhaps. Orange blossom? Olive? All possibilities.

I picked up another bottle at Astor Wines in New York City, along with a Xinomavro. I'm told there are 800 wine producers in Greece; I have a long way to go, it seems. But if even a few of them look like Mercouri, well, I'll have to keep exploring in the manner of personal visits.

 

Lenn Thompson: Paumanok Vineyards 1993 Late Harvest Chenin Blanc

We tasted so many interesting wines last weekend, that it was difficult to choose just one for WWD. Luckily, my colleagues wrote about the two Greek wines that stood out, so I'm going with this older late harvest wine from Paumanok.

In a vacuum, it would still be delicious -- bringing honeyed, dried apricot, dried pineapple and orange marmalade flavors and then sweetness that coats the palate before being scrubbed away by and surprisingly still-fresh acidity.

But, we didn't taste this rare bottle in a vacuum, no no no. 

Instead we were lucky enough to taste it just moments after co-founder Charles Massoud and his son, now-winemaker Kareem Massoud, told us how, when and where they discovered that botrytisized wines were possible on the North Fork.

That just elevated the experience to a new plateau of deliciousness. And a day after we tasted a slew of wines blind, it was great to get back to tasting wine the way we normally do -- with context.

 

Julia Burke: Boulevard Brewing Company Saison-Brett

I had the pleasure of meeting NYCR Cheese Editor Aaron Estes over our Wines of the Year weekend, and I learned quickly that I had met a fellow beer geek. He brought an exciting array of hard-to-find craft brews including an impressive lineup from this Kansas City brewery. I had never tasted Boulevard beer and I was most pumped for this expression of one of my favorite styles.

It did not disappoint.

Gorgeously acidic but nowhere near over-the-top, with lush florals and tropical notes and a controlled hint of Brett sour-earth funk, the full and complex palate led to a superb hop explosion in the finish.

It was badass enough to command my full attention but drinkable enough to sip during the Steelers game with ease. Versatile yet sexy, it went sublimely with the cheeses Aaron brought, especially a triple cream sheep's milk cheese.

If I ever see anything from Boulevard on store shelves during my travels I'll definitely be snatching it up after experiencing this beauty.

What We Drank (January 6, 2011)

Only two entries this week, but two fine examples of what our editors were drinking last week.

Julia Burke: Champagne

This year my regular New Years plans changed unexpectedly. Instead of spending the holiday with old friends, I spent it with new ones - coworkers from my new job at a wine retailer.

Let's just say the beverage bar was raised. Now, I'll happily drink anything at a party - it's about the people, after all - but I have to say the amazing lineup of champagne at this gathering was a first for me.

We started with the good stuff while everyone was sharp and relatively sober; there were three that distinctly stood out for me.

First up was Krug Grand Cuvee Brut, my personal favorite. Insanely chalky and stony, it was fierce yet delicate and its quiet power completely bowled me over.

Our second offering, Bruno Paillard Premiere Cuvee Brut, was an intensely citrusy grower's Champagne with a weightier and rounder feel.

Finally, Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve was full and serious, with a nose I can only describe as meteorological: it had the tension of a rainstorm just about to break. All three were stunning with a cheese plate and a sushi appetizer.

At that point, one coworker decided it was time to sabre a bottle of Mumm Napa with a machete. To quote The Big Lebowski, "you can imagine where it goes from there."

 

Evan Dawson: Jamet 1988 Cote-Rotie Cote Brune

On New Year's Day I drank a wine that might not be eclipsed in terms of pure intellectual pleasure in 2011.

This wine was among several poured blind with dinner, and I immediately thought of the northern Rhone. I guessed Hermitage. For those who doubt the expressiveness of a wine's sense of place, I'd ask them to seek out this producer. The northern Rhone is stitched into the wine's texture.

At 22 years old it was in what must be the ideal drinking window. This wine was like an opera - but with the final act sung in English, the plot finally revealed. Beautiful but no longer building up to some mysterious payoff, it's all out in front of you. That should not be taken to mean "simple." Mint ripples into green olive which flows into lavender, all before the wine hits your mouth. Then it unloads a sturdy but mellifluous structure with tangy iron and dark plum. It was riveting. I won't bore you with more tasting note details.

A special occasion wine was a dazzling way to begin 2011.

What We Drank (December 30, 2010): Xmas Edition

 

Evan Dawson: Long Island Wines

This is the natural time to reflect on the calendar year. My wife's parents make their first journey to Long Island wine country and for Christmas we enjoyed the wines they discovered.

Long Island's sparkling wines are similar to the best Finger Lakes sparkling wines: solid, impressive, under-appreciated.

We paired the Paumanok 2009 Sauvignon Blanc with shellfish and, even in the dead of winter, the pairing sang a near-perfect harmony.

Wines from Hermann J. Wiemer offered a nice counter-balance. The evening concluded with a pile of emptied bottles, including some from Peconic Bay, Shinn, Roanoke, Paumanok, and Wiemer. It was a very New York wine Christmas, and with the entire state to choose from, nothing was lacking.

 

Lenn Thompson: New York Wines

When we head up to the small country town of Schoharie, NY to visit my in-laws for the holidays, multiple cases of (largely NY) wine come with us.

Over the course of a four-day visit, we went through quite a few wines (some pictured here) and we did well this year -- most of the wines were good or better.

Highlights included array of 2009 rieslings from Lamoreaux Landing, a smooth, supple Bordeaux-style blend from Swedish Hill, a high-end Italian blend of merlot and sangiovese (Luce 2007) that is obviously well-made though not in my wheelhouse, and some great value bubbly from South Africa.

Mostly, I was reminded once again of the extreme variety and versatility of New York wines. There really is a New York wine for every occasion or meal. I think we get caught up in "signature" grapes, but maybe New York's diversity is just as exciting.

 

Bryan Calandrelli: Conte Brandolini d'Adda Vistorta 2004

Christmas dinner featured a South African Syrah/Mourvedre blend and this Friulian merlot this year.

I’d had the 2002 vintage of Conte Brandolini d'Adda Vistorta in the past so I generally knew that it would go well with the bracciole we were having that night.

It had a truly seductive nose of dark plum, chocolate and toasty oak. While elegant on the nose, it was anything but graceful on the palate with abrasive tannins and more acid than I usually associate with merlot.

After half a glass I began to wonder if all the rich foods I’d had had ruined me for wine.

In hindsight this was not a wine to open up halfway through dinner. It needed decanting and maybe another 24 hours to mellow out. It had all the aroma elements I was hoping for but it was still way to aggressive for the plate of rich food in front of me.