Macari’s 2004 Early Wine on our table at Azafran in Philadelphia Even though I don’t always agree with his thoughts on Long Island wine, I read Howard Goldberg’s New York Times column "Long Island Vines" every Sunday. This week, however, he talks about one of my favorite whites, Macari Vineyards’ Early Wine. I love this so much that I even wrote about it in my recent story on host/hostess gifts for the holiday season. It really is "charming" as Howard puts it…and we picked up a bottle to take north with us for Thanksgiving. I think some of my future…