Macari Vineyards 2004 Estate Chardonnay ($15) is a lean, crisp white made 100% in stainless steel tanks. Still a bit tight, it takes vigorous swirling to coaxe faint citrus and just-ripe pear aromas from the glass.

Fresh and clean in the mouth, the flavors are a little on the simple side, but are nicely balanced by acidity and minerality. A tart, kiwi-flavored finish is a highlight.

If this wine were $10 or even $12 it would be a nice summer sipper because it’s so refreshing and easy drinking, but at $15 I expect more.