There aren’t a ton of local producers making pinot noir here on Long Island. The "heartbreak" grape is difficult to grow anywhere, but with Long Island’s humidity, I think it’s even harder. I know of at least one winemaker that has stopped making pinot noir completely — using his pinot grapes strictly for bubbly now.

That said, Jamesport Vineyards can usually be counted on for a solid bottling. Owner and vineyard manager Ron Goerler is one of the North Fork’s most respected growers and has long been known for growing quality fruit.

This wine was fermented using indigenous yeast, and wasn’t fined or filtered. Medium ruby in the glass, there are aromas of cherries, plums, oak and tobacco here. If you’ve been drinking deeply-extracted, somewhat plump or soft California pinot lately, this is a nice diversion.

Sweet red fruit is accented by vanilla, cola and oak on the palate — which is light-to-medium bodied, with a velvety texture, food-friendly acidity and just a little tannin on the finish.

It’s only mid-August, but this is a nice transition wine — either for spring or fall — between white wine and red wine season.