Long Island, and the entire state of New York really, offers a surprising number of succulent, delicious dessert wines. In upstate New York, there is an endless array of ice and ice-style wines-some of which are frozen commercially while others freeze right on the vine in the more traditional way. But, on Long Island, late harvest temperatures rarely dip down to the point where the grapes freeze naturally, locking in water so that only the richest, most flavorful liquid oozes from each berry when pressed. Instead, many of the top dessert wines are made using grapes picked at peak ripeness…