Channing Daughters Winery, and its winemaker Chris Tracy, are known for doing things a little differently. Instead of talking Bordeaux, they talk about Northern Italy. Instead of focusing on merlot, white wines are the focus. And instead of growing (and making) mostly French varieties, they grow whatever grows best in their vineyards. Sometimes the novelty of their wines is just a gateway. It gets people interested in their wines and then the wines deliver above and beyond their novelty. But sometimes the wines don’t over-deliver. Sometimes they are just nice novelties. Nothing more. Nothing less. I’ve long been a fan…