One of the wineries we were disappointed not to have to visit during our recent trip to Seneca Lake was Fulkerson Winery. They are a large producer in the region, making more than 50,000 cases annually. They are also one of the larger growers in the region and sell a significant amount of fruit and juice to home winemakers.
Their portfolio is large and varied. In addition to the expected varieties (riesling, Gewurztraminer, etc.) they also grow and bottle things like Vincent, Dornfelder, Delaware, Diamond and Noiret.
Some wineries struggled to make balanced, lively riesling from the hot 2007 vintage, and Fulkerson Winery's 2007 Riesling Reserve ($16) shows a bit of that difficulty. The nose is fruity and ripe, with apricot, pear and lime aromas along with a distinct lychee note that makes me wonder if some Traminette or Gewurztraminer wasn't part of the final blend.
The broad, soft, medium-bodied palate is very fruity with peach and pear flavors dominating and citrusy edge. The finish is dry but a bit flat. That clean vein of minerally acidity found in many Finger Lakes rieslings is less prominent here, resulting in a perhaps more approachable wine that is a near-miss for me. I'm left wanting a bit more structure and a little less weight on the palate.
Producer: Fulkerson Winery
AVA: Finger Lakes
(2.5 out of 5 | Average-to-Very Good)