By Lenn Thompson, Editor and Publisher Of the 40 or so producers on Long Island, only a handful make pinot noir, and of that handful and even smaller group does it well. Osprey's Dominion Vineyards made one of the best in the 2005 vintage, one of the better vintages in the relatively brief history of Long Island wine. Winemaker Adam Suprenant didn't bother making it 2006 and with good reason, it wasn't a great year for reds. But Osprey's varietal pinot noir made a return with the warm, dry 2007 growing season. That ripeness certainly isn't hidden at all. This…