By Lenn Thompson, Editor-in-Chief

Lenz_06gewurztGewurztraminer is a relatively rare grape on Long Island, but Lenz Winery winemaker Eric Fry has an affection for it — which is a good thing.

He makes one of the region's best, always in a dry style.

Sometimes gewurztraminer can get too floral, even for those of us who love the grape, but this Lenz Winery 2006 Gewurztraminer ($20) isn't like that. The nose is all lychee, ginger and spices like cardamon and nutmeg, backed by pineapple and a zesty grapefruit edge.

Medium bodied, the palate features good-but-not crunchy acidity that frames sweet pinapple-citrus fruit flavors with more spice, candied ginger and classic lychee.

The finish is lengthy and ends with a dry, citrusy spice note.

Producer: The Lenz Winery
AVA: North Fork of Long island

ABV: 13%

Price: $20*

(3.5 out of 5 | Very good-to-Delicious)

(Ratings Guide)