By Evan Dawson, Finger Lakes Editor You have never smelled a riesling like this — because you have almost certainly never smelled a malolactic riesling. That's not marketing hyperbole. When you bury your nose in a glass of the Lamoreaux Landing 2009 Round Rock Vineyard Riesling, you'll find an entirely new riesling aroma. For me, it was salted ballpark peanuts. For winemaker Paul Brock, it's… dairy. "A good kind of dairy," he enthusiastically told me on a recent visit. The list of riesling aromatic descriptors has just expanded. There is a reason for this wine's unique profile. Brock explained that…