By Lenn Thompson, Editor-in-Chief When Croteaux Vineyards began producing its own wines in 2006 using the fruit grown in its 10-acre vineyard, it made (at least) two important decisions. First, owners Michael and Paula Croteau hired veteran winemaker Rich Olsen-Harbich from Raphael to make the wines, and they decided to only make rose — and make several different ones. Spend any time with Olsen-Harbich and he's going to talk to you about how he's moved away from yeast inoculations in his the cellar. Instead he relies entirely on ambient yeast these days, making him one of only a handful of…