PBW_09rieslingBy Lenn Thompson

Back in July when I wrote about a 10-year riesling vertical tasting I attended at Peconic Bay Winery, I described riesling on Long Island as "a bit player, a character actor that will never take center stage in any sort of meaningful way."

That is still certainly the case, but for whatever reason (post coming soon) 2009 has proven to be an excellent vintage for riesling on the North Fork, leading to some of the best riesling I've tasted locally.

Winemaker Greg Gove has a special affection for riesling and the Peconic Bay Winery 2009 Riesling ($24) very well may be his best rendition to date.

The lavish, bright nose shows lovely floral aromas of citrus and apple blossom with just-ripe peach and grapefruity citrus fruit notes.

Crunchy, electric acidity balances a burst of citrus fruit — sweet lime and grapefruit — on a mouth-filling palate that also delivers floral, peach and almond flavors. The finish is medium-long and decidedly floral and citrusy with a chalky, saline minerality at the very end.

Producer: Peconic Bay Winery
ABV: 11%
AVA: North Fork of Long Island
Price: $24*
Rating: 88

(Ratings Guide)