By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

When my colleague Evan Dawson introduced us to Lamoreaux Landing 2009 Round Rock Vineyard Riesling ($20) several months ago, I'll admit to being skeptical. Partial malolactic fermentation with riesling? Really?

Yes, really. And while it may have tasted like "dairy" or "peanuts" at the time, I think you almost have to know about the ML to notice it in any overt way today.

Flinty and slate-y, the nose shows bright green apple fruit character and a subtle lemongrass aroma as well. As the wine warms to room temperature, there is a faint milky — think mild fresh mozzarella — note that hints at the partial ML.

The palate features a lightning bolt of acidity (the reason for the ML in the first place) joins with intense flint/slate character to cut through green apple Jolly Rancher and peach flavors. Despite the intense acidity, the wine holds its balance and tastes dry despite some residual sugar.

If you can, I recommend tasting this wine next to some of Lamoreaux Landing's other riesilngs — particularly the single-vineyard wines. The vineyard-to-vineyard differences speak loudly and clearly.

Producer: Lamoreaux Landing
AVA: Finger Lakes
ABV: 10.9%
pH: 3.0
TA: 8.49 g/L
Price: $20*
Rating: 90