By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor I don't write a lot of reviews of wines made with Cayuga White, a hybrid grape developed at Cornell University's Agriculture Experiment Station. Most of them just don't impress me. Too often they get that foxy character at high brix. But, when harvested a bit earlier, it can make some fruity, well-balanced wines that seem perfectly suited to summer sipping — or even as stand in for riesling at the dinner table with spicy ethnic foods. One such example is Lucas Vineyards 2009 Cayuga White ($9). Just cut pear and apple as well as slightly…