By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

Why isn't there more traditionally made sparkling wine in the Finger Lakes?

Yes, I know it's more expensive to make than many wines. Yes, I know that it requires a serious investment time-wise. And yes, I know that the prices wineries need to charge for methode champenoise wines may be higher than some are willing to spend.

But when done well, Finger Lakes sparkling wine shows so much potential.

Take Lamoreaux Landing Wine Cellars 2006 Blanc de Blanc ($25) for example. They don't make it often — the last one was from the 2001 vintage — but when they do, it's a standout in an admittedly and sadly narrow field.

Made with 100% chardonnay, this 2010 NYCR Wines of the Year finalist shows crisp aromas of pear, Golden Delicious apple with hints of toasted brioche and marzipan.

Dry and very apple-y on a medium-bodied palate, there is a faint nuttiness to the apple and apple skin flavors with brioche lurking in the background. Super-fresh acidity really dries out the finish, which lingers nicely.

Producer: Lamoreaux Landing Wine Cellars
AVA: Finger Lakes
ABV: 12%
pH: 2.97
TA: 9.2 g/L
Case Production: 52 (Lot 1)
Price: $25*
Rating: 88