By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor

2010 Finger Lakes rieslings are starting to trickle into the market, but I'm still enjoying tasting through the 2009s, which are showing great balance and intensely — almost across the board.

In general, 2009 wasn't a great year in New York for reds, but it was great for whites. Remember that the next time you hear that this vintage or that "wasn't a good year." It's rare that a season is bad for both reds and whites.

2009 was Jonathan Hunt's first vintage as head winemaker and based on his Hunt Country Vineyards 2009 Semi-Dry Riesling ($14) I'd say he has an affinity for the grape.

Just-ripe pear aromas dominate the nose with a squirt of lime juice, hints of citrus blossom and some high-toned white tea complexity.

That lime-pear combination is a bit more citrusy on the mouthwatering, well-balanced palate, with the white tea and blossom character further in the background. Though off-dry, it wears the 2.5% RS well because of snappy acidity that turns just a bit sour on a long finish.

Producer: Hunt Country Vineyards
AVA: Finger Lakes
ABV: 12.5%
pH: 3.0
TA: 9.9 g/L
RP: 2.5%
Price: $14*
Rating: 87