By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor 

Shinn-2010-firstfruit With its wind turbine and in-progress biodynamic and organic certification, Shinn Estate Vineyards gets plenty of well-deserved attention for its sustainable and community-friendly practices.

What sometimes gets lost in all that green is just how good the wines can be.

There is no doubt that sauvignon blanc thrives on the North Fork, with an emerging regional signature developing over time. When anyone asks me to list the most consistent local sauvignon blanc producers, inevitably Shinn Estate is on the short list.

Shinn Estate Vineyards 2010 First Fruit Sauvignon Blanc ($23) is brightly aromatic, delivering bright citrus and spring flower aromas with layers of pear, pear skin and green melon. The classic Long Island salinity is there as well, while sweet herb and grassy notes are very subtle.

Broad and ripe — yet focused — the palate is citrusy with sea breeze, green melon and a subtle herbaceous edge. Good-not-great acidity balances the palate fairly well.

Though labeled at 13.5% abv, I found the finish a bit hot — particularly as the wine warmed.

Producer: Shinn Estate Vineyards
AVA: North Fork of Long Island
ABV: 13.5%
Price: $23
Rating: 86

(*Ratings Guide)