By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor Want to find the best wineries in a region, particularly ones from a cooler climate? Taste the red wines from less-than-ideal vintages. If the reds wines made in shorter, cooler and/or rainier growing seasons are good, chances are the rest of the portfolio is going to impress as well. The best wineries delivery quality year in and year out. By that, and any other criteria really, Seneca Lake's Hermann J. Wiemer is a top producer. This Hermann J. Wiemer 2008 Cabernet Franc ($20) — from a not-very warm year — is a bit of proof.…