By Julia Burke, Beer Editor Conversations about pumpkin ale can be testy. Some can’t get enough of the style and will try every pumpkin ale on the market; some think it’s an overly spiced or sickly-sweet abomination among fall seasonals. Whatever the direction of the debate, the mention of one beer’s name is enough to silence critics and humble wannabes. “But what about PumKing?” somebody says, and the controversy is over. Southern Tier Brewing Company PumKing has single-pintedly done what precious few beers can: it has taken on a style — one that’s at best a niche market and at…