When Paul and Shannon Brock purchased Silver Thread Vineyard last summer, I immediately wondered about their first vintage and wines. 2011 was a challenge for even the most experienced growers — growers who had been taking care of their vines for the entire growing season. The Brocks came in in what amounts to the fourth quarter of the game.

Having tasted a few of Paul’s first wines (he’s the winemaker), those worries seem to be unwarranted. The Silver Thread 2011s deliver the same bright, clean flavors as many of those he made at Lamoreaux Landing a few years ago.

Silver Thread 2011 Good Earth White ($12) is a blend of 70% purchased vidal (from Seneca Lake), 25% estate-grown gewurztraminer and 5% estate-grown riesling that is clearly meant as an everday, Edelzwicker-style wine.

That heavy dose of gewurzt jumps out of the glass, with forward floral aromas that mingle with a variety of apples, dried pineapple, lychee and a faint membrillo note.

Almost dry and medium bodied, the palate is very fruity and friendly, with just enough acidity to bring balance and clean up the finish. The finish is on the short side and I’m left wanting just a bit more acidity and focus, but this is a well-priced, versatile wine that will no doubt sell well in their tasting room.

Producer: Silver Thread Vineyard
AVA: Finger Lakes
ABV: 12.6%
Price: $12*

(2.5 out of 5, Average-to-Very Good)

2011, featured, gewurztraminer, Review, riesling, silver thread vineyard, vidal blanc, white blend