When Paul and Shannon Brock took over Silver Thread Vineyard in the summer of 2011 — just before harvest — fans of Finger Lakes wines were anxious to see what Paul, who is also the winemaker, would do with the wines. Obviously they weren’t very involved in the growing of their estate’s grapes but with careful harvest-time decisions and sourcing of grapes from other growers, the Brocks released a series of impressive 2011 rieslings, including Silver Thread Vineyard 2011 Doyle East Vineyard Riesling ($25), a tiny, 23-case production.

Juicy and fresh on the nose, this riesling offers notes of pear — along with that gritty minerality pears can have — jasmine, peach and quince.

Sweet pear and peach essence are backed by nuanced jasmine and citrus blossom on a palate that shows near-perfect balance between residual sugar, concentration and acidity. The finish is lengthy with distinct pear and pear grit flavors and texture.

The acid craver in me wants just a bit more verve, but the balance is

The back label indicates “Medium Dry” on the International Riesling Foundation scale and that seems about right (for a change).

Producer: Silver Thread Vineyard
AVA: Finger Lakes
ABV: 12%
Price: $25*

(3.5 out of 5 | Very Good, Recommended to Outstanding and Delicious, Highly Recommended)