I don’t have a lot of experience with the teroldego grape. In fact, the first one I ever tasted was the sparkling rendition Nancy Irelan makes at Red Tail Ridge Winery. So, it was with a completely blank slate that I approached Irelan’s Red Tail Ridge Winery 2010 Teroldego ($35) — this time the still version.

Color fetishists will no doubt appreciate the dark, almost inky color of this wine, but I’m more interested in its other attributes.

Blueberry preserves and ripe strawberry aromas are joined by notes of fennel, Chinese Five Spice and hints of toasty vanilla.

Round and soft with cottony tannins and subtle acidity, the palate combines blueberry and blackberry flavors with savory umami notes that become more pronounced after the wine has been open for a day or two. A meaty, slightly smokey note emerges as well over time. Unique and delicious. I’d recommend drinking this wine sooner rather than later.

Producer: Red Tail Ridge Winery
AVA: Finger Lakes
ABV: 12%
TA: 6 g/L
pH: 3.7
Oak Program: 18 months in “older American” barrels
Production: 83 cases
Price: $35*| Buy now from Empire State Cellars