The nose on the Wolffer Estate Vineyard 2010 “Caya” Cabernet Franc ($40) shows a significant dose of oak, which expresses itself as candied, roasted nuts as well sweet cedar, layered over top of chocolate covered cherries and ripe blueberries.

Luckily, that oak character is more understated on the rich, concentrated palate, where dark berries and plums mingle deftly with woodsy spice, cocoa bean and vanilla. I miss the savory, herbal edge that cabernet franc should have, but with round, well-integrated tannins, it’s approachable now but should cellar well for at least the shorter term.

Producer: Wolffer Estate Vineyard
AVA: The Hamptons, Long Island
ABV: 13.3%
Price: $40 | Buy now from Empire State Cellars

(3 out of 5, Very good/Recommended)