Bellwether Wine Cellars opened its doors today, offering tastes of its 2011 Sawmill Creek Vineyard Pinot Noir and three distinct rieslings. I got to taste all three — two dry, one semi-dry; one fermented with ambient yesasts, two not — and will write about all of them over the next few days.

But today, we focus on the Bellwether Wine Cellars 2012 Sawmill Creek Vineyard Riesling ($22), which is likely to be the crowd-pleaser of the riesling lineup.

Peach and green apple aromas are joined by a squirt of lime, honey and a bit of apple blossom on a pleasant, fruity nose.

The palate shows the kind of concentration and subtle mid-palate weight that one expects from Sawmill Creek Vineyard fruit, with flavors of green apple, peach and slightly pithy lime rind — surrounded by gentle sweetness that is just-balanced by acidity. Though seamless and not flabby, a bit more backbone and verve would likely focus the palate a bit and help to stretch out the finish.

Producer: Bellwether Wine Cellars
AVA: Finger Lakes
Vineyard: Sawmill Creek Vineyard
ABV: 9.5%
TA: 8.9 g/L
RS: 3.7%
pH: 3.1
Price: $22*

(3 out of 5, Very good/Recommended)