You can’t smell sweetness of course, but the Thirsty Owl Wine Company 2012 Riesling ($15) does offer the impression of subtle sweetness on the nose, which is dominated by ripe and candied peach flavors with notes of musk melon and green apple. The palate, while well-balanced, lacks a bit of tension. The flavors range widely from the tropical to the floral to the delicately spicy. Nice mid-palate richness leads into a just-sweet finish dominated by apricot and perhaps a touch of botrytis (a good thing, here). Though delicious, a bit more focus would make it something really special. Producer: Thirsty Owl…

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