At their best, Long Island reds straddle the line between fruity and earthy. Shinn Estate Vineyards 2010 Wild Boar Doe ($30) is on the fruitier side, but still hits the mark. This playfully named blend of 40% merlot, 23% cabernet sauvignon, 17% malbec, 15% petit verdot and 5% cabernet franc is effusively aromatic with ripe black and blue berry fruit, violets, peppery spice and a pleasant meaty note. Mouth filling and plump, the palate shows dark berries, violets, black pepper, Chinese five spice and earthy, nutty oak notes. Drinking well today, it should reward another few years in the cellar…

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