I try to learn something from every wine I put into my mouth. Sometimes the revelations are bigger than others. Sometimes they are subtle reminders.

Forge Cellars 2011 Pinot Noir ($25) reminded me why I taste wines the way I do (when I’m reviewing them, anyway) and why some reviewers are doing it all wrong.

Upon opening, this cooler-vintage pinot is waif-like in its delicate aromas of red cherry, dried strawberry, Earl Grey tea and faint spice. Similarly, the palate is very light bodied, with a core of red berries, dried flowers and just a touch of earthy dried leaves.

Fast forward to the next day — after the bottle had been open for around 15 hours — and the waif fills out some and gets markedly curvier, though still elegant and refined. Both the nose and palate blossoms some with distinct notes of cinnamon, cumin seed and dried flowers emerging.

While it remains light bodied, mouthfeel is a bit broader, with more texture and concentration.

This wine is a great example of why scoring wines based on a 30-second experience with them may not be the best way to go.

2011, featured, forge cellars, pinot noir, Review