I’m not sure why exactly, but Finger Lakes gewurztraminer doesn’t get nearly the attention that it should. It sits firmly in riesling’s racy, trendy shadow, but the category consistently impresses with varietal character and depth — all with the kind of acidity that makes Finger Lakes whites so appealing. Dr. Konstantin Frank 2012 Gewurztraminer ($15) delivers what can be great about Finger Lakes gewurz at a great price point. Big lychee-meets-rose pedal aromas dominate the nose with underlying notes of candied lemon peel, pear and just a bit of peach pit. Broad and mouth-filling, but with nice focus, the…