You don’t see “reserve” on Finger Lakes wine labels as much as you used to (a topic that Evan will explore in an upcoming feature story). Heron Hill Winery, located high above the western shores of Keuka Lake, still uses the term on an entire line of wines. These wines, as I guess you should expect given the label, are often among their best, though I’m partial some of the Ingle Vineyard wines too.

Heron Hill Winery 2012 Reserve Riesling ($25) starts off with aromas of green apple, peach, lime and citrus blossom — pretty classic Finger Lakes — with a distinct talc-y minerality beneath. Juicy with sweet lime and green apple flavors that are perhaps a bit candied, the straightforward palate offers fresh, gritty acidity. The finish is long, tastes dry and is pear and lime-tinged.

2012, featured, heron hill winery, reserve, Review, riesling