Paumanok Vineyards 2012 Cabernet Franc ($24) has a ripe, but varietally correct nose of blackberry and plum fruit with notes of dried autumn leaves, dried herbs and woodsy spice. With a bit of time in the glass, the faintest scent of grilled asparagus emerges as a tertiary aroma.

Cottony tannins and crunchy, fresh black cherry and blackberry flavors are accented nicely by more woodsy spice, dried herbs and plum skin on the medium-bodied palate. I appreciate the restrained oak — that really lets the fruit shine on this ripe but far-from-heavy red that begs to be enjoyed at the table with dinner. The finish is medium long and shows nice fruit and spice qualities. This is a great representation of Long Island cabernet franc in a lower-oak footprint style.