This isn’t a wine that everyone is going to appreciate. As some would say, this is a cab franc lover’s cab franc. You need to appreciate the earthiness of the grape — the herbal edges too.
Bloomer Creek Vineyard 2011 Vin d’ete Cabernet Franc ($18) isn’t driven by bold fruit flavors. The cool, wet 2011 vintage saw to that. Instead, winemaker Kim Engle took what the season gave him, and the result is a unique, impressive wine that the franc lover in me greatly enjoyed.
Aromas of Provencal herbs — especially thyme and lavender — float from the glass, joined by bright red fruits and earthy, leafy notes.
Savory and a little rustic, the medium-light palate shows enough red cherry and raspberry to envelope the well-integrated herbal notes and earthy edge. As the wine sits open for a day, notes of black pepper and black tea join the savory team. You won’t find a lot of tannic structure here, but there is more than enough crunchy acidity to frame the flavors.
AVA: Finger Lakes