Earlier this week, I read two articles (you can read them yourself here and here) lamenting the rise and dominance of dry rose in America — not because the authors don’t like rose, but because other summer-ready wines have been been marginalized.

There is a lot of rose being made in New York right now — more than ever. Much of it is delicious and I drink a lot of it (all year long), so it’s probably not unusual that so many end up being reviewed on this site. That said, rose isn’t something I consider my “summer wine.”

Finger Lakes riesling and Long Island sauvignon blanc tends to fill that role here at NYCR headquarters. I know that because it’s nearly impossible for me to keep either in the house from Memorial Day through Labor Day.

2014 seems to have been a good year for North Fork sauvignon, and McCall Wines 2014 Nicola’s Cuvee Sauvignon Blanc ($24) fits right in with the top tier.

When you first crack the bottle open — it’s closed with a screwcap — the nose is a bit shy, but just a few moments later all of the bright fruit character you expect — melon and lemon oil — are joined by faintly tropical notes and hints of fresh-cut grass.

The bright, dry palate is a bit more giving, with more lemon and grapefuit, but also more of that tropical character coming through as passion fruit. The fruit flavors are concentrated and taste almost sweet, but juicy acidity brings proper balance and the finish lingers with a lemon-lime note and just a few blades of grass.

Producer: McCall Wines
AVA: North Fork of Long Island
ABV: 12.8%
Price: $24 (sample)

(3.5 out of 5 | Very Good, Recommended to Outstanding and Delicious, Highly Recommended)