Pellegrini Vineyards 2014 Sauvignon Blanc ($25), one of Zander Hargrave’s first releases as winemaker at Pellegrini Vineyards — a job he took over just before the 2014 harvest — offer a bit of Long Island wine’s past, its present and it’s future.

The Hargrave name goes back as far as Long Island wine history can go. Zander’s parents, Louisa and Alex Hargrave, founded Hargrave Vineyard, Long Island’s first commercial winery, in 1973, and Zander’s uncle, Charlie Hargrave, has been a vineyard manager on the North Fork for more than a decade.

In 2011 Zander was hired as assistant winemaker at the now-closed Peconic Bay Winery and then as head winemaker for Pellegrini in August of 2014.

We’ll have to wait a bit longer for his first red wines, but some of his 2014 wines have hit the market, including this citrus-bomb of a sauvignon blanc.

Sweet aromas of lime, grapefruit and gooseberry turn a bit more tropical on a brisk, balanced palate — those citrusy qualities are joined by passionfruit and a bit of fresh-cut hay. The finish isn’t exceedingly lengthy, but citrusy acidity begs for another sip. And another.

If this is what Zander is doing today, I look forward to tasting what else he does with the Pellegrini portfolio.

Producer: Pellegrini Vineyards
AVA: North Fork of Long Island
ABV: 13%
Price: $25 (sample)

(4 out of 5, Outstanding and Delicious, Highly Recommended)

Note: This wine is also my wine of the week for the week of January 3, 2016.