Dry riesling (that is actually dry — but that’s another topic for another day) is harder to make that many people realize. Without careful, thoughtful decisions in the vineyard and in the cellar, you can be left with that I always refer to as “lemon water” — shrill, acidic wines that have a pithy, often-bitter citrus note but little else in terms of flavor or concentration.

With Sheldrake Point Vineyards 2013 Dry Riesling ($16) winemaker Dave Breeden shows his deft touch. Aromas of lemon-lime, dried pineapple and just a bit of peach lead into a palate that is crackling with acidity — and enough crunchy citrus and peach flavors to bring balance and just enough concentration. When I first tasted this months ago, the acidity was a bit dominant (even for an acid hound like me) but a little extra time in bottle has tamed those edges.

Finger Lakes rieslings are often released very early. Sometimes too early. This wine is singing right now.

Producer: Sheldrake Point Vineyards
AVA: Finger Lakes
ABV: 11.4%
TA: 7.6 g/l
RS: 0.7 g/l
pH: 2.98
Price: $16 (sample)
Rating: 90