Roman Roth has a way with chardonnay. Always has and probably always will. I don’t drink a lot of chardonnay, mind you, but I can recognize and appreciate well-made chardonnay of any style.

For Wolffer Estate Vineyard 2013 Chardonnay ($19) Roth started with seven separate lots — all hand-harvested and fermented separately in 70% stainless steel and 30% French oak (his portion also completed malolactic fermentation). After six months of sur lie aging, those seven lots became one 1,117-case production.

As I look back over my notes, I see that I wrote “fruity” three times, but it’s not just fruity. It’s fruit forward, certainly, with fresh apple and peach notes, but there is also subtle oak footprint here, a pan-toasted nuttiness. There’s enough fruit concentration that the oak and lees notes act as framing rather than hammers. Snappy acidity brings focus and food-friendliness.

Having a mid-week roast chicken with potatoes and steamed vegetables? Here’s a nice match.

Producer: Wolffer Estate
The Hamptons, Long Island
ABV: 13%
100% chardonnay
Price: $19 (sample)
Rating: 89