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Replacing Unwanted Vines with Better Varieties: Field Grafting Offers Solution for New York Producers

grafting

Spend time with grape growers, and you’ll eventually hear them lament, “I’d love to rip X variety out of the ground and replace it with Y variety, but it would cost a fortune in time and money.” It’s true; the process of plowing up acres of vine, then planting new rows, can be cost prohibitive. I’ve heard from many winemakers over the years who tell me they’d love to get rid of their hybrid varieties. They’d love more riesling, for example. But it’s not like pulling up a Rose of Sharon and replacing it with a bed of Impatiens. Vineyard…

Some Finger Lakes Wineries Favor Synthetic Corks for Their Best Wines; Should They?

By Evan Dawson, Managing Editor, and Tom Mansell, Science Editor Serious wine consumers are not, generally speaking, fans of synthetic cork. Most recoil at the sight of a plastic cork being pulled from a bottle they had otherwise been excited to open. Is this bias unfair? Maybe. Companies are working to improve the quality of synthetic corks. We'll get to that in a bit. But there's no denying that synthetic corks make a clear statement to the serious consumer, whether intended or not. "Cheap," said one of the many tasters on the evening of the recent Finger Lakes Riesling Hour.…

The Science of Biodynamics, Part 6: Organic Vinifera in the Finger Lakes

Irish Spring soap used to deter deer in Silver Thread Vineyard By Tom Mansell, Science Editor This series has provoked important conversations about biodynamics, organic growing, and sustainability. Organic grapegrowing should definitely be a part of this discussion, so just as I interviewed Alice Wise regarding organic viticulture in Long Island, the following is a profile of Richard Figiel and Silver Thread Vineyard in the Finger Lakes. If you weren't looking for it specifically, you might not even know it was there. A small sign on Route 414, the Seneca Lake Wine Trail East, indicates that there is a Silver Thread Vineyard, but…

The Science of Biodynamics, Part 5: Field Spray Preparations: Stirring Controversy

By Tom Mansell We now come to some of the most famous and well-known preparations in biodynamics, the field sprays. Cow manure or silica fermented in the ground in cow horns is practically the very symbol of biodynamics. These preparations are highly representative of the movement, but what, if anything, do they do? Field spray preparations Preparation Main Component Fermented in… Proposed function (Steiner) Proposed function (JPI) 500 Cow manure Horn of a cow "We preserve in the horn the forces it was accustomed to exert within the cow itself, namely the property of raying back whatever is life-giving and…

The Science of Biodynamics, Part 4: Hidden Alchemy in Compost

Yarrow flowers matured in a stag's bladder — Preparation 502 By Tom Mansell All images courtesy of The Millton Vineyard, Poverty Bay, NZ. "For there is a hidden alchemy in the organic process." - Rudolf Steiner, Agriculture At the heart of biodynamic farming are the famous preparations. In this post and the next post, we'll look at the contents of the preparations and their proposed effects and mechanisms or lack thereof. This week's post will focus on the preparations added to biodynamic compost. Compost Preparations Preparation Main Component Fermented in… Proposed function (Steiner) Proposed function (Josephine Porter Institute website) 502…

The Science of Biodynamics, Part 3: Organic Viticulture in Long Island

An earthworm heads back into the soil (source: schizoform on Flickr) I think we can all agree that sustainability in viticulture is important. I mentioned in my first post that our discussion about the science of biodynamics cannot leave out organic viticulture. I asked Alice Wise, viticulturist at the Long Island Horticultural Research and Extension Center (LIHREC) about some of the nuts and bolts of organic viticulture in Long Island.  NYCR: What are the primary challenges of organic viticulture in regions like Long Island? AW: The goal is economically viable yields of high quality fruit – no matter what the…

The Science of Biodynamics, Part 2: Moonstones OR Gravitas Vos Liberabit

The phases of a lunar eclipse, by tizianoj at Flickr A key tenet of biodynamics is the influence of celestial bodies (e.g., the sun, moon, and planets) on agriculture.  While no one will deny the influence of the sun, it's not clear exactly what the moon might be doing to affect grapegrowing and winemaking. Take the case of Aleš Kristančič of Movia in Slovenia. Thanks to glowing reviews and a high-profile section of Sergio Esposito's book Passon On the Vine, Movia has gained cult status for wine consumers. Kristančič is a very popular speaker around the world and is consulted…

The Science of Biodynamics, Part 1: Ground Rules

Back when I was first getting into wine, I was shopping at Red Feet Wine Market, an Ithaca boutique wine shop. I noticed that some of their shelftalkers had little stickers (seen above) with the letters "O", "S"or "B".  Having lived in Ithaca for a bit, I soon gathered that "S" stood for "sustainable" and "O" stood for organic.  I had no idea what "B" stood for. "Biodynamic," owner Dewi Rainey informed me. "It's like organic plus."  Intriguing. She went on to explain that in addition to being 100% organic, grapes are farmed according to an astrological calendar and how…

Pumped Up With Petrol: TDN and Riesling

By Tom Mansell, Science Editor At TasteCamp, bloggers were generously treated to many library selections of riesling.  Peter Bell guided us through two vertical tastings of Fox Run Vineyards rieslings (one pictured at right), of the dry and semi-dry persuasion. Bob Madill poured a library flight at Sheldrake Point Vineyard, and the Tierce brothers poured three years of Fox Run, Anthony Road, and Red Newt rieslings (and their collaborative effort, Tierce Riesling).  The oldest variations poured for the masses dated back to 2001.   One character in particular that stands out in many aged rieslings from around the world is…

An eNose for Riesling? Machine trained to sniff out pleasant aromas

by Tom Mansell, Science Editor What do humans like to smell?  One would think that smell preference would vary from person to person, given cultural and genetic differences. Some smells, though, seem to smell good to pretty much everyone, cross-culturally. In a paper released recently in PLOS Computational Biology, researchers working in Israel reported experiments with an "eNose," a chemical detection device that approximates the ability of the human nose to sense odor molecules.  Human subjects were given aroma samples and asked to rate their "pleasantness".  The machine was then trained on this data, enabling it to detect the chemical…