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Wolffer Estate 2014 Rose

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There are so many styles of rose these days — both here on Long Island and in the wine world at large. New and different renditions pop up every year but when many people think about Long Island rose, they think about Wolffer Estate Vineyard, where winemaker Roman Roth crafts what is know to many as “the wine of the Hamptons season.” Tasting Wolffer Estate Vineyard 2014 Rose ($18) recently, I was reminded why it’s such a classic wine and nearly ubiquitous on the South Fork every summer. Made with 56% merlot, 18% chardonnay, 16% cabernet franc, 5% pinot noir, 4% riesling…

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Macari Vineyards 2013 “No. 1″ Sauvignon Blanc

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There is a lot of very good sauvignon blanc made on Long Island now, which is great given the seafood-focused local cuisine. “What grows together, goes together” and all that — and even though I don’t eat much of the bounty from local waters, I do drink a fair amount of local sauvignon in the warmer months. I don’t think of it as the white grape of the future here anymore. It’s the white grape of the present now. But that doesn’t mean new and interesting things aren’t being done with it. 60% of the fruit that went into Macari Vineyards…

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Boundary Breaks Vineyard 2013 No. 239 Dry Riesling

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It’s not always easy to know who made any individual wine at Boundary Breaks. They work with a few Finger Lakes winemakers and there isn’t any indication on the bottle or on their website which wines were made where, but Boundary Breaks Vineyard 2013 No. 239 Dry Riesling ($20) was made by Peter Bell at Fox Run Vineyards. Flinty and citrus blossom notes bring a bit of complexity to a nose that is driven by sweet lemons and just-ripe peaches. Citrusy and quite fruity and forward, the palate is juicy, with a bit of perceived sweetness even though it’s labeled…

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Dr. Konstantin Frank 2014 Gruner Veltliner

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I’ve been lucky when it comes to Gruner Veltliner, one of the great grapes of Austria. Through friends who have worked for various importers over the years, I’ve been introduced to some incredible renditions — expressive wines of intensity, balance and flat-out deliciousness. With that as context, I’ve been a bit let down by most New York Gruner. I used to chalk it up to young vines, poor picking decisions and winemakers getting their footing with it in the cellar. I still think that’s true in some cases, but I’ve also been guilty of not allowing the grapes to express what…

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Raphael 2014 Sauvignon Blanc

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Made without even a splinter of oak, Raphael 2014 Sauvignon Blanc ($20), is a brisk, somewhat lean rendition of North Fork sauvignon blanc. Dominant aromas and flavors of citrus blossom, stony talc and straw are supported by light lemon, lemon verbena and gooseberry qualities. Juicy, citrusy acid keeps the palate crunchy and accentuates the minerally, stony notes. Bottled only a month ago, I plan to re-taste this wine in a month or so and will update this note if needed. Producer: Raphael AVA: North Fork of Long Island Varieties: 97% Sauvignon Blanc, 3% Semillon pH: 3.18 TA: 8.4 g/L Barrel Program: None;…

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Keuka Spring Vineyards 2013 “Humphrey’s Vineyard” Riesling

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Keuka Spring Vineyards 2013 “Humphrey’s Vineyard” Riesling ($22) offers a nice balance between fruity and floral character. The nose opens with Mandarin oranges and Meyer lemons with notes of peach, honey and fennel frond. Juicy and dry, the palate welcomes Golden Delicious apple flavors to the party along with more-pronounced, zesty citrus notes. Finishing with notes of apple skin and citrus blossom, this is a pretty classic Finger Lakes dry riesling, minus the minerally slate notes you might find from other vineyard sources. Producer: Keuka Spring Vineyards AVA: Finger Lakes Designation: Humphrey’s Vineyard Variety: Riesling Alcohol: 12% Production: 360 cases Price: $22 (sample)…

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Forge Cellars 2013 Pinot Noir “Classique”

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Assumptions and generalizations. In recent weeks they have crept into more than a couple wine-related discussions I’ve had. As with regular, every-day life, they are silly, even dangerous, things that can make us appear ignorant or worse. In wine, they are crutches that even the most intrepid writer/critic/thinker will fall back on in a pinch. Of course many of them are based in fact — at least tangentially. Take the idea that red wines from the 2013 Finger Lakes vintage can’t or won’t be good. I haven’t heard anyone laud the season for any grape. The growing season was a wet…

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Medolla Vineyards 2004 Merlot

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It’s rare that one can go buy a fully mature Long Island wine right off the shelf, but Medolla Vineyards offers that opportunity with the current release Medolla Vineyards 2004 Merlot ($19). Yes. 2004. Current. Release. The Medolla wines are made at Lenz Winery under the watchful eye of Lenz winemaker Eric Fry. The 2002 was one of the most underrated merlots on the North Fork when it was released and the 2007 was a killer value a few years ago when it hit shelves. The 2004 — no doubt given extra time in bottle to even out some of the rustic…

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Standing Stone Vineyards 2013 Saperavi

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Though originally planted at Standing Stone Vineyards with blending in mind, Saperavi — a cold-hardy grape originally from Georgia (not the state) — has earned co-owner/wine Marti Macinski accolades. And she’s only been bottling it on its own since the 2005 vintage. In a region where dark, inky reds are anything but the norm, it’s easy to see the appeal. Beyond the color — which ultimately has little (no) bearing on a wine’s quality or even intensity — there is even more to like. Standing Stone Vineyards 2013 Saperavi ($30) oozes with plum and blueberry fruit aromas that are accented by a slightly…

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Silver Thread Vineyard 2013 Dry Riesling

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In the three-plus years since Paul and Shannon Brock bought and took over Silver Thread Vineyard, they’ve quickly pushed the label’s reputation forward. Paul makes wines in a clean, focused style that is well suited to the region and to the vineyards the couple buys fruit from. Silver Thread Vineyard 2013 Dry Riesling ($18) is made using fruit from a variety of sources — 32% was estate grown fruit on Seneca Lakes, while 33% came from Gridley Bluff Point Vineyard (Keuka Lake), 30% from Doyle East Seneca Vineyard (Seneca Lake) and 5% Randolph O’Neill Vineyard (Cayuga Lake). Crisp and clean, the nose is…

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