I think that those of us who take wine seriously (but never too seriously, right?) sometimes get caught up in wines needing to be "complex." I know that I find myself saying "It’s delicious, but it’s simple" and meaning it in a bad way. Why is that bad? The important thing is that it’s delicious, not that it might only have two or three flavor components instead of a half dozen or more. This wine, Channing Daughters Winery’s 2006 Brick Kiln Chardonnay ($20), is a reminder that a wine can be tasty and straightforward …and that is okay. The grapes…