Most Long Island wineries focus on the red wine grapes of Bordeaux—particularly merlot—and the white wine grape of Burgundy—chardonnay. They are, by far, the two most planted varieties on the East End. Jamesport Vineyards is a little different. They make merlot and chardonnay of course—the market demands them. But, they also have a well established pinot noir program and consider the white wine of Bordeaux, sauvignon blanc, a speciality as well. Most local sauvignon is reared entirely in stainless steel tanks, which highlights the fruit character and results in fresh, lip-smacking wines that tend to be straight forward no matter…