I've been vocal in my appreciation for winemakers who eschew the overblown use of oak in their chardonnays. I can appreciate well-made barrel-fermented chardonnay, but it's not a style I drink a lot of. Maybe it's the riesling lover in me, but I tend to like a purer expression of fruit and the vineyard in my whites. That doesn't mean that I love every no-oak chardonnay that I come across. This McGregor Vineyard 2007 Unoaked Chardonnay ($17) is not one of the better examples I've had. Such a pale green-tinted yellow that it's nearly colorless, the nose is similarly light…