To kick off "LENNDEVOURS Chardonnay Week 2006" we’ve got Jamesport Vineyards 2004 Cox Lane Chardonnay ($19). 2004 was only an average growing year on the North Fork of Long Island, but Ron Goerler, Jamesport Vineyards’ owner and vineyard manager, spoke highly last spring of his chardonnay (and cabernet sauvignon) grapes. He’s well-regarded as a grape grower and his reputation is actually part of what attracted winemaker Les Howard to Jamesport Vineyards. When I first met Les last year, he stated a desire to make well-balanced wines first and foremost because "Spikes of oak or acidity numb your taste buds, shortening…