Here on the East End, in the heart of merlot country, Channing Daughters Winery in Bridgehampton serves as a tasty oasis for white wine lovers. They make make red wine as well of course, but white wine is where winemaker Christopher Tracy shines, with a varied roster of different and unique wines.

While most local wineries use Bordeaux as their model, Tracy and Channing Daughters Winery looks to Italy for inspiration — northern Italian regions like Friuli and Trentino — because of the similarities of their cool maritime climate to our own.

Channing Daughters Winery is known for experimentation and the 2005 Sylvanus ($24) is a delicious, unique field blend of 43% Muscat Ottonel, 44% Pinot Grigio and 13% Pinot Bianco. Pale straw yellow in the glass, it features aromas of flowers, melon and baking spice. Melon and orange peel flavors, with a discernable nutmeg note intermingle within a medium body with terrific acidity.

Of their recent white releases, this is my favorite because it combines complexity with the acidity I love. Only 208 cases were produced, so get yours today. Many of these wines sell out to the wine club.