Howard Goldberg’s New York Times column focuses on a LENNDEVOURS favorite, Waters Crest Winery this week. It’s a nice little write up and he highlights the wines I’d probably highlight from Jim’s current releases. But one thing he wrote has me questioning my own definitions of ice wine and late harvest wine. My understanding is that ice wine, true ice wine that is, is made from grapes that are left on the vine to freeze naturally. That is why most local dessert wines, which are made with commercially frozen grapes, tend to use "late harvest" instead. Of course, in the…