Story and photo by Jim Silver, General Manager, Peconic Bay Winery I have been around the wine business long enough (22 years) to have seen many wine trends and fashions played out in the public arena: Australia's incredible rise and stunning fall; Germany's reawakening; France’s fall from grace; pinot grigio’s leap from obscurity to most popular import from Europe; California wines at 12.5% and now at 15.5% alcohol. There are others of course, but today's topic is that curious love-hate relationship some of us have with chardonnay. When I was a young tenderfoot in the wine business, I was fascinated…