By Lenn Thompson, Editor-in-Chief

Shinn_09roseLooking for a light, crisp rose with delicate red fruit character and maybe a little citrusy acidity? Look somewhere else.There are plenty of local roses that fit that description.

Shinn Estate Vineyards 2009 Rose ($15) is something different. It is a completely different animal and is clearly not meant to be a beach or poolside gulper. 

The nose offers the expected red cherry and strawberry fruit, but there is some decidedly earthy character here too, and some dried herbs — showing classic Long Island merlot and cabernet franc characteristics, which makes sense — those are the grape that went into it.

On the palate, there is a heft here that few local roses offer with savory herbs and earthy flavors layered on top of red berry and watermelon fruit. Both fresh acidity and gently noticeable tannins, bring more structure than you'd expect and lead into a dry, medium-length, earthy finish.

I hesitate to use the word "serious" to describe a $15 rose, but this is certainly a wine for food lovers. It is a wine that begs — maybe even needs — to be served with food to shine brightest. I'm not talking about your typical rose fare either. This is a wine for barbecue grilled chicken and burgers but slabs of bacon and cheddar. For spiced pork chops and pulled pork.

It's basically a light red wine, and should be treated that way at the table. It's not a wine for everyone — several people I poured it for didn't love it — but it's a wine that makes a statement.

Producer: Shinn Estate

AVA: North Fork of Long ISland
Rating:  85

(Ratings Guide)