By Lenn Thompson, Executive Editor I'm on the record as someone who is less than enthusiastic about New York syrah. Only a handful of wineries are even doing varietal syrah — so it's not a big or important segment right now at this point — but I find most of them underwhelming. As such, I'm of the opinion that syrah will never be more than a niche product. Then again, syrah can make some nice rose. There are exceptions to every rule and Jamesport Vineyards 2007 "MTK" Syrah ($35) fills that role for New York syrah. MTK stands for Mattituck,…