Channing_08tocaiI can count on one hand the number of varietal Tocai Friulano's being produced in New York — and two of them come from Long Island's Channing Daughters Winery.

Long a maker of as single Tocai, winemaker Christopher Tracy made two vineyard-desginated Tocai's in 2008 — one for a new Mudd West Vineyard planting on the North Fork and one for the Sylvanus Vineyard in Bridgehampton — two display the uniqueness of each spot.

Channing Daughters 2008 "Sylvanus Vineyard" Tocai Friulano ($24) was aged in both stainless steel barrels (55%) and older French and Hungarian ones (45%) for 10 months, and that subtle oak influence is noticeable on the nose as a subtle nutty spice note beneath aromas of citrus blossom, lemon-grapefruit and ocean breeze.

Medium-to-light bodied, the palate is lively, fresh and intensely saline with high-toned citrus and citrus zest flavors. As it warms to room temperature, almond, apple and spice flavors become a bit more pronounced.

Tocai is a classic pairing with cured meat, and this wine fits that bill well with its salty minerality.

Producer: Channing Daughters Winery

AVA: The Hamptons, Long Island

ABV: 12.5%

Case Production: 398

Price: $24


(*Ratings Guide)