I can count on one hand the number of varietal Tocai Friulano's being produced in New York — and two of them come from Long Island's Channing Daughters Winery.
Long a maker of as single Tocai, winemaker Christopher Tracy made two vineyard-desginated Tocai's in 2008 — one for a new Mudd West Vineyard planting on the North Fork and one for the Sylvanus Vineyard in Bridgehampton — two display the uniqueness of each spot.
Channing Daughters 2008 "Sylvanus Vineyard" Tocai Friulano ($24) was aged in both stainless steel barrels (55%) and older French and Hungarian ones (45%) for 10 months, and that subtle oak influence is noticeable on the nose as a subtle nutty spice note beneath aromas of citrus blossom, lemon-grapefruit and ocean breeze.
Medium-to-light bodied, the palate is lively, fresh and intensely saline with high-toned citrus and citrus zest flavors. As it warms to room temperature, almond, apple and spice flavors become a bit more pronounced.
Tocai is a classic pairing with cured meat, and this wine fits that bill well with its salty minerality.
Producer: Channing Daughters Winery
AVA: The Hamptons, Long Island
Case Production: 398