By Lenn Thompson

With a handful of local winemakers changing addresses this summer, Long Island wine lovers are left to wonder how the changes will play out in their favorite wines.

Rich Olsen-Harbich has made some of the North Fork's best sauvignon blanc for years, but now that he's moved on from Raphael to take over at Bedell Cellars — where they don't make a varietal sauvignon by the way — what will come of the Raphael First Label Sauvignon Blanc?

We'll find out in about a year, but Raphael's new winemaker, Les Howard, has made some nice wines with the grape elsewhere on the North Fork, so quality should remain high.

Olsen-Harbich's last Raphael sauvignon, Raphael 2009 First Label Sauvignon Blanc ($22) has aromas of lemon, grapefruit, sweet herbs and fennel.

Medium-bodied and intensely grapefruity, the palate is laced with a heavy dose of sweet herbs and subtle tropical fruit papaya notes. Fresh, juicy acidity keeps it lively and the finish is medium-long and saline.

Producer: Raphael
ABV: 12%

Case Production: 600

(Ratings Guide)