The current lineup of wines at Sparkling Pointe — Long Island’s only only-sparkling winery — is impressive top to bottom. Over the next few days, I’ll review some of their current releases, including this Sparkling Pointe 2009 Topaz Imperial ($37).

Coppery pink in the glass — looking vaguely of its namesake gemstone — this sparkler offers lively aromas of red cherries, wild strawberries and cranberries, with lesser hints of lemony citrus and distant-but-distinct wet rock minerality.

The lighter-bodied palate is at first apple-y before delivering mixed red berries and a savory toasty-earthy minerality. Dry, well balanced and featuring tiny, persistent bubbles it is almost frothy in its freshness.

Versatile and food friendly (are there many sparklers that aren’t?) this is a wine best served as an aperitif and with light appetizers.

Producer: Sparkling Pointe
AVA: North Fork of Long Island
ABV: 12.5%
pH: 3.05
RS: 8 g/l
TA: 8.1 g/l
Price: $37*

(3.5 out of 5 | Very Good, Recommended to Outstanding and Delicious, Highly Recommended)