There are times when I want sparkling wine to be yeasty, funky and autolytic. Other times, I want bubbly that is pure, clean and driven by citrus and mineral flavors — and that is when I’d reach for Lieb Cellars 2009 Blanc de Blancs ($35).

Fresh and bright, the nose offers aromas just-ripe pear, lemon zest, lemon meringue pie and citrus blossom with only the most subtle yeasty qualities.

Dry and piercingly crisp and refreshing, the palate combines fruit flavors like pear, green apple and golden raspberry with a distinct marine minerality. Gentle mid-palate richness is balanced by frothy, persistent bubbles and well-integrated acidity.

Oysters want this wine. Actually, most any food does.

I always enjoy Lieb’s BdB, but I don’t remember another vintage showing this much focus and finesse.

Producer: Lieb Cellars
AVA: North Fork of Long Island
ABV: 12.5%
Price: $35 | Buy now from Empire State Cellars


 (4 out of 5, Outstanding and Delicious, Highly Recommended)